Dish No. 72 : Beet Salad at the Dutch
Rebecca Marx
The oyster sliders may get all of the attention at the Dutch, but the beet salad deserves a spotlight of its own.
While we don't want to come out and claim that Andrew Carmellini has reinvigorated the beet salad -- that sounds a little too much like self-parody -- we will say that he's done right by one of the salad family's most abused members.
You won't find any goat cheese or walnuts -- toasted, candied, or otherwise -- anywhere near these roasted beets, which boast the vibrant hues of a sunset over a polluted city. Instead, you'll find celery shaved so thin as to be completely inoffensive; a scattering of crunchy pumpkin seeds; a hint of dill; tart, runny yogurt, which is puddled attractively around the beets and shot through with grassy olive oil; and a smoked hard-boiled egg.
It's that egg that truly elevates mere vegetation to object of desire -- those little puffs of smoke make it seem less salad and more vindicated chick-lit heroine.
The Dutch
131 Sullivan Street
212-677-6200
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