Dish No. 43: Rockaway Taco's Fish Taco

Rebecca Marx

Rockaway Taco made it safe for certain parts of Brooklyn to come to Queens. And while we have mixed feelings about this -- not to mention the Brooklyn chauvinists who need to be reminded that they're not actually in Brooklyn -- we feel no conflict whatsoever about the virtues of Rockaway Taco's fish taco.

It's everything a fish taco should be: The long fingers of fish are lightly battered and deep-fried until they're crunchy, greaseless and sublime; the guacamole is thick, creamy, and plentiful; the crema is tangy and endowed with just enough heat to keep things interesting; and the radishes, cilantro, and red cabbage are crisp, fresh, and a vibrant rejoinder to their unctuous bedfellows.

And while the assemblage could use a second layer of tortilla to keep everything together, cleaning up the wreckage is one of the more delectable pursuits to be found on Rockaway Beach.

Rockaway Taco
95-19 Rockaway Beach Boulevard
347-213-7466

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