M. Wells' Peach Cobbler Is, Like M. Wells Itself, Too Brief a Treat
Rebecca Marx
Alas, M. Wells, our time together was so brief, yet so sweet. And quite literally so, thanks to such estimable desserts as the peach cobbler pictured above.
Technically speaking, it's less cobbler than peach upside-down cake, served warm and top-loaded with a fat scoop of vanilla ice cream. Although it lacks the biscuit- or pie-like crust that defines most traditional cobblers, it compensates with a moist, springy crumb that acts as a sponge for the juices that ooze from the reservoir of soft, almost gooey peaches that lurk at the bottom of the dish.
As the ice cream melts, everything seeps together into a sweet, cakey puddle that's one part peaches 'n' cream and one part pleasant oblivion, a fond farewell contained in a ramekin and dispatched with a spoon.
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M. Wells
21-17 49th Ave., Long Island City, NY
Category: Restaurant
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