Robert Sietsema at Taiwanese Specialties; Lauren Shockey at Forcella

This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples fly heads and chicken neck at Taiwainese Specialties; Lauren Shockey indulges in the deep-fried pies at Forcella.

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Liz Barclay
Taiwanese Specialties

Sam Sifton praises St. Anselm for the "pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody," deeming it a "Keens for the millennial set, a Bar Americain for the riders of fixed-gear bikes."
[NY Times]

Steve Cuozzo approves of Salinas: "just a really nice, good-looking, well-run place to enjoy the smartly crafted, Spanish-themed menu of chef Luis Bollo."
[NY Post]

Ryan Sutton has little love for Gilt, "famous for a grilled cheese sandwich inspired by Gossip Girl. That truffled travesty cost $30. Its successor is a $31 bacon burger. The meat belongs to the elite wagyu breed, claims the kitchen. As if. The patty, with the heft of any supermarket sirloin, delivers more gas-grill aroma than beefy flavor. The bun is dry and cold."
[Bloomberg]

Jay Cheshes likes Marble Lane more than he thought he would: "Former Top Chef contender Manuel Trevino (Travertine, Lavo) hasn't dumbed down his cooking to jibe with the space or the crowd it's presumably courting, avoiding the usual clubland clichés."
[TONY]

Adam Platt finds is pleasantly surprised by Ellabess, which may be able to "avoid the dreaded curse of the boom-time hotel. But right now, there aren't quite enough [inspired little recipes] on the menu to merit a trip to this strange border region of Kenmare."
[NY Magazine]

Gael Greene raves over Wong: "I'm won by the stickiness of rice noodles with pork and sea cucumber ragu, more egg and chestnuts -- no, not water chestnuts -- European chestnuts. Creamed corn -- without cream here -- is the essence of summer, warmed in the field seconds after shucking. ... Go soon. Local corn can't last much longer."
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two is charmed by Maison Premiere: "One secret to Maison Premiere's success (it already ranks among Esquire's best bars of 2011) is its intimacy, which heightens the mood of Big Easy romance, as does the Delta-blues soundtrack."
[New Yorker]


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