Robert Sietsema at Taiwanese Specialties; Lauren Shockey at Forcella
This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema samples fly heads and chicken neck at Taiwainese Specialties; Lauren Shockey indulges in the deep-fried pies at Forcella.
Liz Barclay Taiwanese Specialties
Sam Sifton praises St. Anselm for the "pulsing bass line of ambition beneath its simple steakhouse melody," deeming it a "Keens for the millennial set, a Bar Americain for the riders of fixed-gear bikes."
Ryan Sutton has little love for Gilt, "famous for a grilled cheese sandwich inspired by Gossip Girl. That truffled travesty cost $30. Its successor is a $31 bacon burger. The meat belongs to the elite wagyu breed, claims the kitchen. As if. The patty, with the heft of any supermarket sirloin, delivers more gas-grill aroma than beefy flavor. The bun is dry and cold."
Jay Cheshes likes Marble Lane more than he thought he would: "Former Top Chef contender Manuel Trevino (Travertine, Lavo) hasn't dumbed down his cooking to jibe with the space or the crowd it's presumably courting, avoiding the usual clubland clichés."
Adam Platt finds is pleasantly surprised by Ellabess, which may be able to "avoid the dreaded curse of the boom-time hotel. But right now, there aren't quite enough [inspired little recipes] on the menu to merit a trip to this strange border region of Kenmare."
Gael Greene raves over Wong: "I'm won by the stickiness of rice noodles with pork and sea cucumber ragu, more egg and chestnuts -- no, not water chestnuts -- European chestnuts. Creamed corn -- without cream here -- is the essence of summer, warmed in the field seconds after shucking. ... Go soon. Local corn can't last much longer."
Tables for Two is charmed by Maison Premiere: "One secret to Maison Premiere's success (it already ranks among Esquire's best bars of 2011) is its intimacy, which heightens the mood of Big Easy romance, as does the Delta-blues soundtrack."