11 Most Astonishing Dishes of 2011, NYC

P1020214x.jpg
Truffle chawan mushi from EN Japanese Brasserie (click on image to enlarge)


What does it mean to call a dish "astonishing"? Well, it has to be beautiful to look at, innovative within its canon, and perfectly executed. It has to surprise as well as satisfy. Such a designation can occur only once every 100 dishes or so, and here are the ones that impressed and delighted me the most over the last year. Some are always available; others only sporadically so. I would love to sink my teeth into every one of them again.


11. Black Truffle Chawan Mushi at EN Japanese Brasserie (above photo) -- Studded with tidbits of chicken and mushroom, chawan mushi is an Asian take on European custard, delighting the tongue with its smooth texture and eggy blandness. What a perfect backdrop for a shaving of real black truffles. You may never be able to eat the ubiquitous artificial truffle oil again. 435 Hudson Street, 212-647-9196


P1000628x.jpg
10. Jiz Biz at Cupola Samarkanda II -- Buttery cubed lamb organs are cradled in a parabolic cracker that bears a striking resemblance to matzo. Eat by breaking off bits of toki (as the cracker is called), and using them to scoop up liver, heart, and kidneys with raw onions and herbs. It's a dish justifiably popular from Georgia to Uzbekistan, here rendered with great delicacy. 1797 McDonald Avenue, Brooklyn, 212-255-4746


P1000703x.jpg
9. Maitake con Pecorino Sardo at Birreria -- Roasted in a wood-burning oven, these pristine woodland beauties really go to work. Impregnated with green olive oil, concealing a mother lode of pecorino cream, and strewn with microgreens, the flavor and texture is unforgettable -- and smoky, too. Eataly, 200 Fifth Avenue, 212-229-2560


IMG_3252x.jpg
8. Beid With Lahme Manakeesh at Man'ouChe -- Manakeesh is Lebanese pizza, which may actually be a forerunner of the esteemed pizza pies of Naples. Get beyond the pedestrian description of this flatbread on the menu -- "ground beef and eggs" -- to discover one of the richest pizzas you've ever tasted, totally satisfying in every way. 7701 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-200-0150


P1020284x.jpg
7. Raw Barnacles at Tertulia -- Americans are so picky about the sea creatures they eat, and we miss many taste sensations in being that way. Jellyfish? Cheap and everywhere in the sea, yet almost never seen on American menus. Ditto with gooseneck barnacles, which constitute a real passion in Spain. Tertulia flies them in and serves barnacles as they should be served: raw, chewy, and accented with a garlicky allioli -- the Spanish equivalent of mayo. 359 Sixth Avenue, 646-559-9909


Advertisement

My Voice Nation Help
11 comments
modestoca25
modestoca25

Some nasty looking/sounding dishes.....

Bthom2010
Bthom2010

I'm impressed you avoided making a "jiz biz" joke.

fashionyyy
fashionyyy

Welcome to ==== http://fashion-long-4biz。com ==Air Jordan (1-24) shoes $35UGG BOOT $50Nike shox (R4, NZ, OZ, TL1, TL2, TL3) $35Handbags ( Coach Lv fendi D&G) $35T-shirts (polo, ed hardy, lacoste) $16Jean (True Religion, ed hardy, coogi)$34Sunglasses ( Oakey, coach, Gucci, Armaini)$15New era cap $16Bikini (Ed hardy, polo) $18FREE SHIPPING

fashionyyy
fashionyyy

Welcome to ==== http://fashion-long-4biz。com ==Air Jordan (1-24) shoes $35UGG BOOT $50Nike shox (R4, NZ, OZ, TL1, TL2, TL3) $35Handbags ( Coach Lv fendi D&G) $35T-shirts (polo, ed hardy, lacoste) $16Jean (True Religion, ed hardy, coogi)$34Sunglasses ( Oakey, coach, Gucci, Armaini)$15New era cap $16Bikini (Ed hardy, polo) $18FREE SHIPPING

fashionyyy
fashionyyy

Welcome to ==== http://fashion-long-4biz。com ==Air Jordan (1-24) shoes $35UGG BOOT $50Nike shox (R4, NZ, OZ, TL1, TL2, TL3) $35Handbags ( Coach Lv fendi D&G) $35T-shirts (polo, ed hardy, lacoste) $16Jean (True Religion, ed hardy, coogi)$34Sunglasses ( Oakey, coach, Gucci, Armaini)$15New era cap $16Bikini (Ed hardy, polo) $18FREE SHIPPING

Jay
Jay

The garlic oil is black because it's slow cooked to burnt, giving it a bitter flavor along with its garlicky, sesame essence. The profile is crucial to a successful bowl of ramen, providing that flavor kick and essential, elusive depth of flavor to offset the creamy tonkotsu and soy sauce.

Lan
Lan

my friendis a 27 years old doctor,mature and beautiful. and now she is seeking a good man who can give her real love, so she got a sername Andromeda2002 on  Agedate.СòM, a nice and free place for younger women and older men,or older women and younger men, to interact with each other.Maybe you wanna check out or tell your friends.

Rsietsema
Rsietsema

Thanks for the explanation, Jay

skchai
skchai

This is most associated with Kumumoto prefecture in southern Japan.  Kumamoto-style also often comes with wakame seaweed, which I think I see in the photo.  But burnt garlic oil is a popular add-on for other styles of ramen as well.

Loading...