Year of the Takeout: Day 3

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Pork pillows

Day 3: Szechuan Wonton from Young Chow (145 Fourth Avenue, 212-533-0275)

Today, we start with a hypothetical.

One night, a can of Chef Boyardee gets trashed in the East Village.

Instead of going home to his beloved significant other, he winds up in the Lower East Side (or Williamsburg, whatevs) apartment of a wonton.

They hook up and birth a hybrid dish -- a selection that appears somewhat like a mix of Chinese-American and canned Italian food, but not too similar to either.

This kid turns out to be Szechuan wonton from Young Chow, which, for $3.25, includes 10 hand-pressed dumplings.


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Chow down!

What's perplexing about Chow's offering?

The taste has a strange similarity to the tomato-paste-soaked beef Boyardee raviolis that I inhaled as a kid -- but with vaguely foreign components.

The sweet, thick, peppery gravy -- which seems just General Tso's poured onto broth-less wontons -- has the same mouthfeel as Boyardee sauce, minus the waxy, metallic cheesiness.

Still, at less than $4, the heaping plate ain't a bad way to feed your salty dumpling fix.


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