Year of the Takeout: Day 26

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Lake Tung Ting Shrimp, from Spice (610 Amsterdam Avenue, 212-724-5000)

Lake Tungting is a place in China's Hunan province where two of the nation's largest rivers convene, a trait that has made the surrounding area very fertile -- and very much the country's breadbasket.

The water body's eponymous crustacean dish, $9.95 at this Upper West Side eatery, does not taste like something that would necessarily be birthed in a gigantic lake.

(Come to think, the Philly cheesesteak sandwiches and tortellini alfredo that are bizarrely on the menu probably aren't either, but whatevs.)

So, yes, this Tung Ting did break from the shackles of what could easily be expected by Year of the Takeout. A delicate egg white and wine sauce, flavored with plentiful garlic, bathes bunches of fleshy prawns that have been lightly dusted in starch. Vegetables, none of which come from a can, are plentiful, and have a fresh snap to 'em.

Solid.



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