No. 7 Sub Comes Up With More Crazy Heroes for Its Greenpoint Location

The innards of the shrimp-pork sausage submarine -- sandwiches don't get moister than this.

There's an unspoken rivalry between places that offer doctrinaire versions of dishes and those that choose to be wildly innovative. Is it a better business model to give the public exactly what they're used to and love, or to take the trouble to convince them that something better might exist? In the demimonde of submarine sandwiches (a/k/a heroes, hoagies, grinders, po'boys), most places toe the line with a roster that has been familiar at least since the 1920s, including Italian-American cold cuts, meatball Parmesan, sausage and peppers, Brooklyn roast beef, eggs and potatoes, etc. (We'll forget for a moment that a chain called Submarine ever existed.)

The shrimp-pork sausage hero was almost too big to fit in the camera's frame.

Newly opened No. 7 Sub in Greenpoint is the second offspring of a well-regarded Fort Greene bistro, and younger sister of a hero shop in Manhattan's Wholesale District along Broadway in the West 20s. Both places choose innovation over conventionalism; indeed, you almost can't find a familiar filling on either of the menus.

Those who know the narrow and spare original No. 7 Sub will get bug-eyed looking at the new one. It occupies a broad storefront near the corner of Manhattan Avenue and Kent Street in the heart of Polish Greenpoint -- indeed, one of Fork in the Road's favorite Eastern European greasy spoons, Happy End, is right across the street. The place is also conveniently located one block from the G stop (I first typed "G spot," yikes!) at Greenpoint Avenue.

Inside, find broad vistas of black-lacquered wood, plenty of seating, including a prize booth right in the front window, and a bar on the right (with full cocktail empowerment), which is where you place your order. The sandwiches are prepared far away at the end of the room, and will be delivered to your table when ready. The new kitchen has certain capabilities that its predecessor lacked, including, in addition to more room, the abilities to grill and deep-fry. This is a boon to the menu of the new place.

The premises of the new branch are large and commodious.

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