Doma Reopens as Doma Na Rohu at Bedford and Seventh Avenue South

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After a hiatus of only a few weeks, the West Village's Doma reopens.


To some, a beloved coffee shop, to others just a pickup joint for thirtysomethings, Doma first appeared a decade ago at the corner of West 4th and Perry streets just off of Seventh Avenue South. Ensconced on the parlor floor of a charming 19th-century townhouse, at first, the place was just a coffee bar with a Slavic flavor. But soon, it began to offer short meals, and about a year ago, it turned into a full-fledged restaurant--at least after 6 p.m.


Then the usual rent increase drove them out recently, but the new space they found is in some ways preferable, more restaurant-like and less coffee-house-like, with a counter featuring seating and plenty of window tables. The property is a corner one, but also one that has been long-doomed. Most recently, it was a Subway and also Hercules Fancy Groceries, the store that pioneered boutiquey beer in the Village, originally located at Christopher and Bleecker. (The West Village has become one big game of real estate musical chairs.)

At the moment, only a limited menu is available, but this coming week, the all-important dinner menu kicks in. It includes lots of German and Austrian stuff, such as Konigsberger Klopse (meatballs in white gravy with capers) and Wiener schnitzel, plus a slew of snacks, many in a French vein, like moules frites and crepes.

There's been a slight name change, too. Doma is now Doma Na Rohu, which means "Doma on the Corner."


Doma Na Rohu
27 1/2 Morton Street
212-929-4339


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The dinner menu kicks in next week.


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Location Info

Doma Na Rohu

1 Morton St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant


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Polesny
Polesny

DOMA na rohu Brings a Taste of the Old World to the Village

May 18, 2012 -- Almost ten years to the day after Doma opened on Perry Street, changing the landscape of the West Village forever, husband and wife restaurateur team Michael and Evie Polesny once again prove their uncanny knack for creating a go-to spot out of a formerly bleak corner of the Village.  Doma na rohu opened very very softly, with a limited, induction-based menu, at the corner of Morton Street and Seventh Avenue a couple of weeks ago.   Now as ConEdison gets ready at last to turn on the gas, Doma na rohu is making its grand debut.

“Doma na rohu’s focus is seriously good food, wine and beer, all from the lands of our grandmothers; but it’s still a warm, inviting space like Doma Café was, only much more beautiful,” says Evie Polesny, wearing one of the charming Czech modrotisk white-on-indigo-patterned aprons she had made for the waitresses at the Old World-styled space.    The grandmothers in question, hailing from Germany, Czech Republic, Poland and Austria, handed down the secrets of comforting favorites ranging from latkes with sour cream to konigsberger klopse to bramborovy salat; and with a Hungarian chef at the helm, Doma na rohu has the whole Austro-Hungarian empire covered.

Even Magyar chef Arpad Galvacs, whose New York City resume includes Kurt Guttenbrunner’s  Wallse, speaks with both love and reverence of the grandmother who started him on his love affair with fine food.   “Anything the grandmothers made, you can’t go wrong with it,” he says as he remembers his grandmother’s big wooden table in a Budapest kitchen, where he got to lick the bowl after she had prepared the prototypes of Doma na rohu desserts like Eper Krem Torte or Apple Strudel. 

Galvacs’ own mother sends from Budapest the secret seasoning mix for Doma na rohu’s signature gulash, whose rich flavors are complemented perfectly by house-made spaetzle and a couple of sour pickle spears.   Traditional elements are the look before the deftly-made leap for Galvacs’ own take on tradition with dishes like the Saffron Chicken Ragu, his take on Chicken Paprikash.   Off the grill -- lamb chops with lecso, a Hungarian-style ratatouille (that also appears with eggs and house-cured salmon on the brunch menu); and grilled hanger steak with grilled seasonal vegetables.

Traditional elements are the foundation not only of the menu, but also the look of the space.  The Polesnys have always been masters of creating a homey vibe (Doma na rohu means “at home on the corner,” in Czech); and the space is as inviting as they come.  Dark wood wainscoating and benches line the walls; limewashed plaster keep the space light and cheerful.   The artwork includes beautiful antique prints of Czech and Slovak villagers in traditional dress, old black and white photographs of the Czech countryside, as well as a print of the Wittenberg town square, where Evie’s father grew up before leaving Germany on the Kindertransport.  The German lighting, delicate white ceramic and burnished brass,  casts a gentle glow against wood and plaster.  The back of the benches that line the giant windows were hand-painted with a replica of a floral pattern from a 16th-century Czech church (like Michael’s mother, named for St. Ludmila).   And even the bathroom offers a gallery of mesmerizing antique photographic portraits of Czech and Slovak villagers.

Owner Michael Vasa Polesny is the Czech-born part of the equation, and his excellent selection of German, Czech and Austrian beers on tap proves it.  The wine list features some incredibly delicious and very reasonably priced Austrian and German wines, all from family-owned vineyards, and rounded out by some excellent French, Italian and even a Californian wine.  The daily Happy Hour ($3 beer, $5 wine) offers a low cost means toward making their acquaintance.

 Already full of regulars of all ages, not to mention tourists who can’t believe their luck at stumbling across it, Doma na rohu is taking its place as a cornerstone, pun very much intended, of its new neighborhood.    The weekday menu pleases customers of the old Doma Café, who are happy to find their old food favorites in such a beautiful space; and the evening menu and brunches, along with the beer and wine list, offer something special, both old and new, to a neighborhood in sore need of something both local and genuine. Doma na rohu

27 ½ Morton Street at Seventh Avenue

212-929-4339

www.domanyc.com <http: www.domanyc.com="">

Opens at 7 am on weekdays, 8 am on weekends

Open til midnight every night

  

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Evie
Evie

Greetings from Doma na rohu's owner!  There is a lot of misinfo in here, not including architectural terms.....

Old Doma had a big breakfast and lunch menu available til 11 pm from our first day ten years ago, the sweet menu designed by a sous chef at Esca who went on to the Spotted Pig and the John Dory (and who happened to be my beloved cousin!).  Over the years our menu got bigger and bigger, but the basic concept of good, reasonably-priced homey food in a great atmosphere never changed.   We added a bistro-style dinner service about two years ago, which changed the scene at night to more food- and less work-oriented, and moved us into the land of table service.

Our new restaurant has some of the old Doma in its weekday incarnation -- a lot of the menu items reappear on weekdays for breakfast and lunch, you can still work there, and we still have a big crowd of academics and writers coming in to think and work and eat.  But Doma na rohu is a restaurant with a big bar, eight beers on tap, a big wine list featuring German and Austrian wines from family-owned vineyards, and a menu featuring foods from the countries of the former Austro-Hungarian empire, including Czech, German, Austrian and Hungarian foods.  There is no French food -- even our crepes are palancinky, done in the Czech style. 

Doma na rohu may in some senses be like beloved old Doma, all growed up, but my husband and I think of it as a new restaurant and a new experience for customers old and new, featuring some the best-loved foods from our grannies and great-grannies, our babichkas and baboushkas.

See you there!

Richard Wiener
Richard Wiener

Fabulous concept, guys.  The Central European dishes should bring extant Hapsburg emigrés out of hiding.   Hard to beat the charm of the old DOMA, but who knows?

rockyfella
rockyfella

Actually, "Doma na rohu" means "At home on the corner". 

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