Donut Pub Vs. Landbrot: Battle of the Jelly Donuts

On the left, slightly the more diminutive, the plain jelly donut from the sainted Donut Pub on 14th Street. On the right, the Berliner from Landbrot on Seventh Avenue.

There's an upstart jelly donut in town. It's called the Berliner, and it recently appeared at Landbrot, a new German bakery in town that fills a niche we never knew existed.

The place also sells pastries, some interesting and some not, plus a luncheon menu including several sausages, large of length and served in big buns with homemade condiments, plus meal-size salads and sandwiches.

This sortie in the jelly-donut wars occurs during an era when the hideous Dunkin' Donuts chain has driven away many of our favorite native sinkers parlors. Donut Pub is one of the few left in Manhattan, turning out reliable baked and fried donuts, bear claws, éclairs, and the like, and regaling us with coffee that's awful by contemporary standards, though we didn't know it back then, or didn't let on.

The Donut Pub's jelly is $1.15, a bargain price by today's standards, while Landbrot's is $3, a little steeper. Both are good in their way, the Donut Pub's cakier, a little sweeter, while Landbrot's has a tougher and more open texture, and less jelly -- which may be a deal killer for some. Neither jelly filling was identifiably of one kind or another, though. But that just goes with the jelly-donut territory.

As John F. Kennedy said in 1963, "I am a jelly donut."

The cranberry walnut loaf at Landbrot, made with coarse whole-wheat flour and very good.

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Location Info

Landbrot Bakery & Bar

137 7th Ave. S., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

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