The Best Soba in NYC

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Canadian organic buckwheat soba, from SobaKoh


There's no doubt the Age of Ramen is upon us. You can get ramen noodles on nearly any block in some neighborhoods, including at least a dozen places in the East Village alone, where you can pay up to $20 for a bowl with a choice of myriad toppings and configurations. The other Japanese noodles--soba and udon--have long been laying low, hiding out as it were. But this might be about to change.

The wildfire popularity of Cocoron--a dyed-in-the-wool authentic Japanese soba spot paradoxically located on a hardscrabble stretch of Delancey--has proven that soba might be making a comeback among diners quite literally fed up with ramen. Of course, the disappearance of Honmura An, a long-running Soho soba restaurant so obsessive that the noodles were made in a little shack a few feet from your table, not long ago left the soba throne empty.

While ramen is made with wheat flour, soba is made with buckwheat, native to the northern stretches of Japan. The grain has more in common with American wild rice than with wheat, and it takes great skill to make soba. The dough is rolled out using a series of ever-smaller dowels, which were proudly displayed at Honmura An. The test of a great soba noodle is at what point it breaks as the uncooked noodle is bent. Soba noodles are slightly darker than ramen and have a "tooth," or texture.

Soba is often eaten cold with a soy-based dipping sauce. The noodles feel cool on the tongue, and wasabi mixed into the sauce (or dabbed on the noodle, which is the more authentic way) adds tang. After you've consumed the cold noodles, a pot of hot water turns the dipping sauce into a warm soup. Eating soba is a ritual, while eating ramen is just sucking down starch.

At comparative sleeper SobaKoh, the homemade soba noodles are superb, but there's one that beats all the others: inaka soba, which costs $3 extra. It's made with three kinds of organic buckwheat flown in from Canada and made into noodles on the spot. This soba is darker since the whole grains are used and has a toasty flavor; the texture is less smooth than regular soba, which is made with buckwheat flour. Served cold and dipped and slurped in a broth that contains a little yuzu, the inaka soba is irresistible.


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The regular soba at SobaKoh


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Next: How to make soba, an instructional video.

Location Info

Cocoron - CLOSED

61 Delancey St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Soba Koh

309 E. 5th St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant


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3 comments
C68558
C68558

I'd like to correct a couple potential misinterpretations regarding buckwheat in the text of this article.

Buckwheat is raised in northern Japan, as well as the central mountains and Kyushu. It is not native to those locations, but to the mountains of Yunnan.

Botanically, it has nothing to do with either wheat or wild rice. Flavorwise, it has a nutty flavor in common with wild rice, so that may be what the author is referring to. For the noodle maker, the lack of gluten for stretchiness is the big issue. Wild rice also lacks gluten, but is not used for noodles. (Google fans will find misspellings of "wide rice noodles." )

Kim
Kim

The making of soba (which I watched on No Reservations) is so meditative and serene. What an art form.  The last zaru soba I ate was at Cocoron. Good stuff.

Btw, you got the location info incorrect. Should be Soba Koh, right? :)

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