Tejal Rao at Pok Pok Ny; Robert Sietsema on Eldridge Street

Categories: Under Review

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Robert Sietsema
Peanut Sauce Noodles at Yi Zhang Fishball, Inc

Tejal Rao fights the crowds and manages to snatch a seat at Pok Pok Ny: "Ricker gives traditional dishes attention and respect but doesn't fetishize them or price them unreasonably. That's why there are crowds. Go! You're likely to enjoy most every dish, unless you bring along a killjoy who insists on measuring food's authenticity by his own pseudoscientific criterion."

Robert Sietsema decides to review an entire street this week. He files a piece on Eldridge Street for this week's the Voice: "Recently, three wildly inexpensive restaurants have opened up, each with its own unique attributes."

Pete Wells gives one star to Hakksan: "There behind the screen was a squadron of woks blasted by flames that looked hot enough to refine steel. Each one was being tended by a white-jacketed cook, and each cook had the focus of a cobra. If you were in a cooking competition and this gang was the other team, you'd take one look and think, 'It's over.'"

Another review for Hakkasan. From Steve Cuzzo of the New York Post: "But most tabs make you gag even when dishes are tolerable, a benchmark intermittently achieved. You don't have to share the dumb view that Chinese food "should" be cheap to recoil from the $24 fee for a phalanx of duck and mango slices marching through icky-sweet "lemon" sauce."

The Daily News gets back to restaurant reviews. Their inaugural review is of Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya: "When the kitchen scores, the results can be spectacular. The oxtail and bone marrow fried rice, a smooth fusion of western and Japanese influences, delivers a perfect balance of fat and flavor."

Jay Cheshes goes for Yunnan restaurants Lotus Blue and Yunnan Kitchen: "Both serve food so distinctive--fruity, floral, occasionally spicy--that the uninitiated might not identify it as Chinese at all. With essentially no competition (that Brooklyn joint serves only noodle soups), you might have to take it on faith that this is what real Yunnan food tastes like."

Contact me here or follow me @dearclarissa. To keep up with all of our food coverage go to Fork in The Road or follow us on Twitter @ForkintheRoadVV.


Location Info

Venue

Map

Pok Pok NY

127 Columbia St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Isa

348 Wythe Ave., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Hakkasan

311 W. 43rd St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Blue Ribbon Sushi Izakaya

187 Orchard St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Yunnan Kitchen

79 Clinton St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

Lotus Blue

110 Reade St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

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