How Do I Become a Food Writer?
Dear Anonymous: It's a very tough market for food writers, as you know, with some universities barfing out large volumes of grads with MAs and MFAs in "Food Writing" and "Food Studies," academic disciplines they basically invented out of whole cloth, and often staff with professors of dubious meaningful credentials. Publications (e.g., the Huffington Post) have learned they can pay literally nothing for food writing. And nearly gone are the days when glossy mags like Gourmet routinely paid writers $3 per word.
Actually, a career in food writing was never as easy as it supposedly once was. And the challenges of pursuing such an occupation continue to be formidable.
Here's how I did it, and it's still a good way.
Get a day job that pays the rent. I worked as a secretary, a photo editor, and then as a financial analyst for years in an era when computer skills were less common. If you have the chops and inclination, waiting tables, Web design, and office work can be good choices, but for many careers in food writing (as a critic, especially), it's probably better to stay away from restaurant work and public relations.
Start a blog on a subject that's startling and not yet well-covered. The Evolution of the Pizza, Jogging for Foodies, Urban Fishing, Dish of the Day, One Neighborhood Per Week, Food and Sex, Root Vegetables Only, Fast Food Eaten Slowly, Cheapest Meal I Saw Today, Being James Beard, One Random Restaurant, Following Yelpers, and Where Eater's Never Been are some examples. Start a Twitter, and start a Facebook page trumpeting your adventures.
Once the blog is up and running and excellent, use it as leverage to pitch stories -- modest ones at first -- to Web and paper publications.
Study every website, magazine, and newspaper that publishes food writing. Then study those that don't. Find ways that ones that don't can incorporate food writing into their editorial mix, and then tell them how. Offer a sample of what you could do for them on a regular basis, illustrated with great photos. Cast yourself as a totally self-contained journalistic unit, and invest $300 in a great camera.
Do the same thing for the publications that already use food writing. Tell them an area they've missed, and offer an excellent sample. (If Time Out doesn't cover ethnic groceries in obscure areas, prove that they need to by producing scintillating pictures of food products almost nobody has ever heard of.) Create a need where none exists.
Second, worm you way into food publications that seem to use an army of food writers. Try Serious Eats. To come up with something no one there is doing yet will be a real challenge. This is for the purpose of résumé building, not income generation. When someone asks you, you can say, "I've been published 17 places, and here is a random collection of my clips." Remember, everything you publish is important, and increase the volume as you move forward.