Pok Pok Brings the Funk to the LES

Dish #30 is for noodle lovers

Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our "Best of 2012" issue. Tune in every day (weekends, too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team.

Andy Ricker's Pok Pok Wing has been rebooted as a tiny noodle bar on the Lower East Side, where cooks work over the gas stoves, using wooden paddles to shift rice noodles around in hot pig's fat. The dishes here are not fancy, but they're certainly made with care, and there are condiments on the counters for adjusting your own plate.

The Phat Thai Thamadaa ($8) is wonderfully funky in a tamarind-fish sauce bolstered with palm sugar and fermented radish. It's a pile of textures -- from the stretch of the rice noodles to the scramble-fried egg, crisp bean sprouts, and dried tofu. Scattered about like treasure: crushed peanuts and tiny dry shrimp.

It's fast, satisfying, and generously portioned, ideal for stumbling toward after a few drinks in the neighborhood. A vegan option is available, as are glass noodles. And for a real jolt, try the super-strong Kafae Boran, an intensely sweet but deeply flavored Thai-style coffee (hot or cold).

Pok Pok Phat Thai
137 Rivington Street

Read the most recent posts on our food blog or check our longer weekly reviews. Contact the writer at trao@villagevoice.com.

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They took wings that had learned to fly and made them broke again. A truly inextricable and mystifying act, like Nico taking voice lessons to increase her range. What redress does Manhattan have for this madness? We had only just begun to know you Pok Pok Wing. Like a tiny headstone, the memory of you is of one that barely lingered long enough to inscribe itself indelibly, yet those lightly colored lines contain magnitudes of longing for days left unlived, wing-flesh left untasted. 


The eggs have spilled the carton. Yolks fester in the sun. Barren lies the garden. Death dons his cummerbund. They've come to snuff the rooster. And pour away the oil. Sweep away the broken shells. The embryos can spoil. 


We could have loved forever, but all of life's du jour. The sign on Rivington says Pok Pok, but the wings are nevermore.


@pokpokpdx Mmmmm, Pok Pok! Luv Pok Pok. Now BiCoastal.