Robert Sietsema at Rural Restaurant, Tejal Rao at Comodo
Robert Sietsema goes to Rural Restaurant, a northeast Chinese eatery in Flushing. The food shows Korean, Mongolian, and Russian influences: "Speaking of deals, pescatarians will go gaga over the flounder version of the recipe--an entire fish thickly crusted with cumin, red-pepper flakes, garlic, and cilantro."
Robert Sietsema Rural Restaurant
Tejal Rao is at Comodo this week, a follow-up to a weekly supper club at a Tribeca home. The menu is a combination of inspirations from Spain, Brazil, Mexico, and the U.S.: "The strongest dishes at Cómodo are what you'd eat at home on a good night: a lovely bit of braised pork with garlicky greens, mushrooms, and mashed potatoes ($24), plated simply. A big heap of pasta dressed in a gorgeously creamy Bolognese ($24), dotted with soft poblano peppers."
Adam Platt tries out the Greek food at Amali, a menu that emphasizes farm-to-table Mediterranean cooking; "We liked the smoky, spicy, almost Sichuan-tasting eggplant too and the silky mound of burrata cheese, which this aggressively sustainable, ecotrendy restaurant flies in specially from Campagna, in a slightly scandalous, non-ecofriendly way."
Pete Wells files a review for Calliope in the West Village. He gives them one star: "You'd have to spend a week in Paris to taste rabbit cooked in as many ways as it is served at Calliope. Rabbit kidneys on toast, a special one night, was so traditional it was almost shocking, in the most pleasant way."
The New Yorker is also at Calliope and likes it. For them, the menu is "so glamorous, so unabashedly retro, that it seems like the sort of food that might have been served in the first-class cabin on an Air France flight in the late sixties.
Jay Cheshes dined at Murray's Cheese Bar but has issues with the service: "Servers behave like bored shop clerks, friendly but passive--chattering together in corners waiting to be flagged down. The food, which can take forever to emerge from the small open kitchen, often arrives lukewarm and limp."
Steve Cuzzo is at M. Wells Dinette this week and talks primarily about the lousy service: "The chalkboard 'menu' listed all of seven items (cash only). They were out of soft drinks. My order for escargots with "Pastis compound butter" rocked the house on its heels: the $9 bowl took 30 (30!) minutes to arrive."
Ryan Sutton reviews the food at the Barclays Center. He says that although the venue isn't quite the ambassador for New York food as is Citi Field or Madison Square Garden, it gets the job done: "With Greenpoint tacos and Smith Street brats, Barclays Center is a respectable, if not necessarily memorable, tribute to Kings County's diverse food scene."
Stan Stagner really digs The Redhead and gives them four out of five stars: "The menu begins with "Shares." Most you may not want to. Housemade Soft Pretzels ($9) are an idealized version of a street-cart cliché. Instead of sad, gummy industrial extruded dough, you get piping hot, yeasty knots baked just the right number of seconds shy of burnt."
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