Greenwood Park Beer Garden Review

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Buffalo on the left, Sriracha on the right. The Buffalo were better.

There's no Dogfish Head, for example, or Bear Republic or Lagunitas products; instead, a quirky selection from other craft brewers distributing nationally, favoring heavier brews. You could get a Stone Smoked Porter, a Peak Organic Fall Summit Ale, and something from a brewery I hadn't heard of, a Green Flash West Coast I.P.A. that was hoppy beyond belief.

As befits a true beer garden, there were lighter German beers (Radeberger Pils, Weiherstephaner Dunkel, Hofbrau Hefe Weizen), spotty Belgian beers (Duvel, Stella Artois, Hoegaarden), and a section devoted to a locavoric selection that seemed to pluck the most obvious variety from each producer (Six Point Sweet Action, Kelso Pilsner, Captain Lawrence Liquid Gold). In short, the list played to the grandstands without offering the sort of brilliant but lesser-known bottles of favorite brewers, or things you didn't know about that turn out to be great.

The food was another story. Cheap and good, without being pretentious, it was the best part of the afternoon. There were dueling chicken wings that are a frequent special (two for $1): Pick either conventional Buffalo or a too-sweet Sriracha. The hamburger ($7), though slightly overdone, was nicely garnished and smoky from the flame grill. The onion rings were just as greasy as you might have hoped, and there were french fries and sweet-potato fries and a hot dog, too.

Altogether a nice place to spend a quiet afternoon as a hurricane approaches. As I looked out the window, a family was seen pushing a stroller through the gates and into the outdoor area. "What a great place for kids to play and goof around!" I exclaimed. "That was a point of contention when the place first opened," my friend noted. "For a while, children were prohibited at certain hours, and there was a fierce battle between hipsters and breeders. Finally, the breeders won."

The well-dressed burger

Greenwood Park
555 Seventh Avenue
Southwest Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn
No phone

Follow me on Twitter if you dare -- @robertsietsema

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