Is Bunny the New Bird in NYC?
Is rabbit the new chicken? Well, probably not! But Fork in the Road has been encountering rabbit all over New York menus in the last few months, and it seems to be more than a fluke. It all started this past March (So March Hare!), when we encountered a novel rabbit cacciatore at Zero Otto Nove, depositing a good-size and tender haunch in a rich tomatoey hunter's sauce shot with capers and onions, and thought, "Gee, this is great." Somehow, the hare, with its firm pale flesh, stood up much better to a sauce that would have overwhelmed and nearly dissolved a piece of chicken.
In short order, rabbits were flying out of area kitchens like Peter Rabbit's siblings hopping out of the hutch into Farmer McGregor's fields to steal carrots. Fatty 'Cue (the one on Carmine Street) established deep-fried bunny as its signature dish, looking very much like a misshapen version of fried chicken and served with a tart Southeast Asian dipping vinegar. Meanwhile, cooler heads at Daniel Boulud's Boulud Sud were offering a rabbit porchetta configured as a room-temp roulade.
Debuting this summer near the Barclays Center, Woodland featured Bugs basted in Riesling on a bed of spatzle that was almost bread pudding, while the recently opened Le Midi deposits a dark rabbit ragu, Italian style, on thick fettuccine.
Next: More bunny!