Salchipapas Redefined at Los Perros Locos -- and the Moral Consequences
Salchipapas are found in most South American cities. Consisting of french fries topped with sliced frankfurters, it's both street food and a meal aimed at children when their parents are eating more elaborate fare in a restaurant. You know, like a Happy Meal. Now Los Perros Locos ("The Crazy Wiener"), a new Lower East Side restaurant specializing in Colombian-style hot dogs, seeks to redefine the dish in contemporary foodist terms, perhaps inspired by poutine on one hand and Jersey disco fries on the other.
This classic, bare-bones version of salchipapas found at Peruvian restaurant Coney Island Taste shows you how over-the-top Los Perros Locos' is.
The restaurant offers three versions of the dish, the simplest of which ($3.50) features waffle fries, Hebrew National franks cut into little flowerettes, and a pair of sauces, one sweet and pink, the other green and cilantro-ey. One step up (and a dollar more) you also get tiny fried potatoes (skin on), crumbled Mexican chorizo (skinless), fried lardons, and snack chip detritus. For $5.50, your salchipapas strays way into gutbomb territory with the further dumping of a lonely quail egg and the fried pork rinds known as chicharones.
The question of course is, Why would you want your salchipapas hosed with all that glop?
It does tend to obscure the hot dog and french fry (in this case, waffle fry) component. On the other hand, it represents transgressive cuisine at its most extreme. You've got to ask yourself, Would your mother allow you to eat that? Or your doctor?
The dish is much tastier than it looks. But really, a quail egg?