Maury Rubin on City Bakery and Birdbath's Delicious Coconut Macaroons
Maury Rubin, owner of City Bakery and Birdbath, grew up eating coconut macaroons--the ultimate Passover dessert--from a Manischewitz can. Years later, he introduced a more refined version at his baked goods empire in Lower Manhattan. The huge, pyramid-shaped monsters are browned on each corner to create three triangles of shredded coconut that meet at the top in a rounded point.
Jewish bakeries tend to dress up the traditional sweets with dipped chocolate or raspberry preserves, but Rubin (who famously serves 35 kinds of hot chocolate) has only served one kind for the last five years: original.
Rubin and his army of bakers use organic dried and shredded coconut from a small supplier. Bits as thick as wide rice noodles wind up smushed between tiny shreds that make the macaroon easy to break apart into bite-size pieces.
Only a few experts in his kitchen are "authorized" to mold them. "It's a bit of a struggle to get that triangle just right," said Rubin. "There are people in the kitchen who get their hands batted away from trying to make them." It's no wonder they come out like delicate, Passover-friendly mountains.
Find larger macaroons for $4 each at City Bakery, and a smaller version for $3 each at Birdbath's various locations.