Della Pietra's Gourmet Meats Now Open in Brooklyn Heights

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If the phrase "Gourmet Meats" emblazoned on the storefront glass of Brooklyn's newest specialty butcher shop, Della Pietra's, is not bait enough for you to enter (it was for us), the artfully dismembered ruminants hanging out to dry in the window display aging room should get you, a self-respecting omnivore, through the door.

Hardliners of the neighborhood will insist that the spot's location on the north side of Atlantic Avenue makes it part of Brooklyn Heights, but Della Pietra's website (which is so sparse it's basically useless--not even a phone number or address is listed) lists the spot in Cobble Hill.

Whatever the case, walking into Della Pietra's is a lot like stepping into a finely curated (and entirely edible) minimalist art gallery. Abruptly flanking the entryway are four sterling urns of oil and vinegar, from which you can fill a bottle to take home. The store's rear is partitioned off by a row of glass display cases filled with aged steaks, pork chops, racks of lamb, and sausage. The walls are lined with just a few shelves, each containing just a few items like gourmet peppers in glass jars and a variety of deeply colored marinades. And employees don blue-and-white-checked shirts that could have been picked up at Urban Outfitters, making them the hippest bunch of butchers we've ever seen, even in Brooklyn.

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Della Pietra's specializes in beef, and it dry ages cuts like New York strip, filet mignon, and full-bone rib steaks for four to six weeks in its aging room. You'll also find other types of meat including Berkshire "kurobuta" pork, all-natural American lamb, milk-fed veal, local chicken, and myriad sausages. Pair your dinner's centerpiece with local cheeses, artisan breads, and a selection of prepared side dishes, or learn something about hacking apart dead animals: The spot intends to sell a "full line of butchering apparatus for the at-home butchers."

One thing the store is not is cheap. Some of the steaks here sell for $40 a pound, so the clientele Della Pietra's seeks are eaters who will settle for nothing less than the finest, cost be damned. Those looking to feed the masses with cheap eats will probably defer to Key Foods, Trader Joe's, or one of the halal butchers along the bustling section of Atlantic Avenue where the store makes it home.

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