Sorella Restaurant Cookbook, Our Cookbook of the Week
All photos courtesy Olive Press.
Publishers love to send us cookbooks here at Fork in the Road, and often those books come straight from the chefs at some of New York's best restaurants. So we decided to share the love, and each week, we'll feature a new book, a recipe, and a few thoughts on cooking from the authors. Check back every Tuesday for a new book.
Sorella: Recipes, Cocktails & True Stories from our New York Restaurant,
By Emma Hearst and Sarah Krathen, 239 pages, Olive Press, $35
On a devil-may-care stretch of Allen Street, Emma Hearst and Sarah Krathen, both fresh out of culinary school, opened Sorella (Italian for "Sister") the night before Thanksgiving, 2008. They were barely 25, but mature dishes like braised oxtail risotto and roast guinea hen with a rounded wine list to match seduced early diners and garnered accolades from critics and neighborhood residents alike. Their little restaurant--its three dimly lit, narrow rooms tucked into the fringe of Chinatown--quickly became a standby for dates, celebrations, or Tuesday night dinner: a twinkly jewel among fixture shops and dumpling houses.
Last night, Hearst and Krathen celebrated the release of their restaurant cookbook (available October 29), a delightful tome to the food of Piedmont with a light heart and a heavy dose of whimsy.
Below, Krathen dishes on the virtues of old-school Piedmont cooking, Gramercy Tavern, and squash, and shares a beloved Sorella recipe. If you're hungry for more, catch Krathen and Hearst Wednesday at the Columbus Circle Williams Sonoma for a cooking demo and book signing at 6 p.m.
What is the oldest recipe in this book and where did it come from?
The Acciughe al Verde; it's a classic Piedmont recipe and we adapted it from the Nona Genia cookbook. It's an anchovy dish with all these classic components; it came from the Ligurian anchovy trade and all the different uses of the anchovy.
If you could give one piece of cooking advice to the world, what would it be and why?
Cook with your heart. To make great food, it can't just be about being technical; it has to come from an emotional place.
What cook(s), living or dead, do you most admire and why?
Michael Anthony at Gramercy Tavern. He keeps food in its natural state; he doesn't try to mess with things. If it's a mushroom, he lets it be a mushroom, he doesn't try to make it be anything else.
What's your go-to seasonal ingredient right now, and what do you love about it?
Squash. I'm all about fall squash; there are so many different varieties. They have natural sweetness, and they're good on their own and good with other things ... and good for you.
Name one unusual/unexpected/unique recipe from the book.
The Broccoli Frito is simple in a sense, but it came from this interestingly Asian inspiration and evolved into this dish that's the most popular thing on the menu. It shocks people all the time.
Click to the next page for the recipe.