Venture to Tacos y Quesadillas Chilpacingo Gro. for Tlacoyos
The cadre of carts parked outside of the Myrtle-Wyckoff stop in Bushwick have gained another member: Tacos y Quesadillas Chilpancingo Gro. (Wyckoff Avenue between Gates and Myrtle) is a cart based out of Corona, Queens -- where there is an original outpost -- and it has roots in the capital city of Guerrero, Chilpancingo de los Bravos. The menu offers antojitos like tacos, sopes, tostadas, and quesadillas, all similar to the neighboring loncheras save for one worthy addition: tlacoyos.
All photo by Scarlett Lindeman
Tlacoyos are oblong masa rounds hand patted with a layer of pureed beans inside -- sometimes fava, sometimes ayocote, but usually black. Here, the masa cakes are as smooth as the fiberglass edges of a hand shaped surfboard; they're not made-to-order, but they're crisped on the griddle until the insides warm and the outsides toast to a durable sheen ($3 each). There's a medium-bodied avocado salsa along with a salsa verde and rojo, and you can apply at will escabeche and toasted chile de arbol from plastic containers. The tlacoyos can also be tricked out with seared cecina or crumbles of chorizo, but they are best left vegetarian.
After the corn cake has been sufficiently warmed, the cook splits the side open with the corner of her large, metal spatula. Instead of topping it was the requisite crema, queso, y lechuga, she stuffs the additions inside, where they lend cool, crunchy contrast to the molten beans. The outside is left unadorned, ready for each patron's salsa preference.
Tacos y Quesadillas Chilpancingo Gro.
Monday through Saturday, noon to 3 a.m.
Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city's best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas. She writes the ¡Oye! Comida column for Fork in the Road.