A Vineyard Crawl in the North Fork

Categories: Unscrewed

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Lauren Mowery
Take advantage of the post-Halloween, pre-Thanksgiving lull in "pumpkin traffic" (how Long Island locals refer to day-trippers who jam up roads by the u-pick patches), and spend a day in the vineyards of the North Fork. The Fork starts just past Riverhead, and depending on traffic, entails an hour-and-a-half- to two-hour drive. November sees crisp yet cooperative weather, crimson and gold foliage, and farm stands stuffed with seasonal bounty. Plus, winemakers and their teams have finished harvest -- they'll be more relaxed and accessible for a chat if you wish.

There have been longstanding complaints that the wines of Long Island are too expensive for the quality. Although I found truth in this grievance as recently as five years ago (and I have been visiting for nearly 15), the wines, especially the reds, have grown-up immensely. Cab Franc -- once a scrawny, green, awkward teen here -- has plumped up and developed curves, finding a home in the North Fork as deserving of the grape as the Loire. I have asked winemakers about the changes I've noted in the wines over the years, and many attribute it to the inevitable learning curve that comes with a new region (the first commercial vinifera vines were planted here in 1973; many sites are much younger). Unfortunately, given the proximity to NYC and the Hamptons, real estate costs are exceptionally high, and that drives bottle prices into the cumulus above.

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Lauren Mowery
But proximity to NYC comes with the perk of access, making the exploration of our attractive grape-blessed backyard doable in a day. Trade a city day for one filled with country farms and vineyard rows that run straight to the edge of the stony shores of the Sound. There's a desolate beauty to the Fork's autumnal aquatic vistas, when slate gray clouds, pierced by intermittent beams of sun, hang low and foreboding over the water. The quaint, seaside town of Greenport, near the eastern tip, has a charming mix of boutiques and five-and-dime sundries shops, as well as classic seafood dives like Claudio's Clam Bar juxtaposed with modern, perennially popular Noah's. The North Fork is replete with enough worthy wineries to fill several consecutive days or a series of weekends. Although an afternoon itinerary could be written a multitude of ways, the one suggested below is modeled off my recent visits. Feel free to veer off-course and explore. Often the finest discoveries are those you make on your own.

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Lauren Mowery
Roanoke Vineyards
One of the initial wineries encountered on the route heading east, boutique operation Roanoke makes an excellent first stop to stretch your legs and warm up your palate. Notable winemaker Roman Roth (also of Wölffer Estate) has crafted the wines since Roanoke's inception in 2000. The spacious, wood-beamed tasting room on Sound Avenue flanks the vineyards out back, where you can enjoy the patio during pleasant weather.

Roanoke offers a line-up of whites, rosé, and reds, but the Cabernet Franc is particularly attractive. Look for Gabby's Cab Franc, a wine produced from the ultra-manicured vines of 83-year-old vineyard master Gabby Pisacano's easternmost block "Twelve Rows." The 2010 is structured, juicy, and inflected with cherry, herbs, and bitter Mexican chocolate; it sells for $43. The less expensive 2010 Roanoke Vineyards Cabernet Franc at $34, is more rustic in texture but a pleasure to drink as well.

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Lauren Mowery
Macari Vineyards
Although not officially certified as biodynamic, the Macaris have managed their working farm and vineyard according to the spiritual-ethical-ecological tenets of Dr. Rudolf Steiner's biodynamic anthroposophy since the vineyard's first plantings. The 500-acre waterfront estate has been in the family for over 50 years, but the winery wasn't founded until 1995 by Joseph Macari Sr. and his wife. Currently, son Joseph Macari Jr., his wife Alexandra, and their children helm the operation. The winemaker is Kelly Urbanik, former assistant at Bedell Cellars (just up the road), and one of very few female winemakers in the North Fork.

Popular at the winery is the annual Early Wine Chardonnay for $17 (2013 the most current), which harbors a touch of sweetness; it's released shortly after each harvest as a fresh expression of the vintage. The 2012 Katherine's Field Sauvignon Blanc ($23) offers bright grapefruit and lime with a slight herbaceous note and mouthwatering acid -- try swapping your regular go-to Sauvignon Blanc for this one. There are higher-priced reds worthy of your coin, but don't miss the Sette NV (non-vintage) for $19. The Macaris sought to create an affordable everyday drinking wine blending Cab Franc and Merlot, and it works. Don't let the lack of vintage throw you off -- the wine's approachable cherry, plum, and spice notes make it a no-brainer for an easy Sunday night pasta dinner while watching another Carrie Mathison meltdown on Homeland.


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