Five Great Non-Potato Fries in NYC
Don't get us wrong -- the potato is a fine food, and French fries? Hell, they're scalding hot oil's gift to the world (suck it, state fair beer-battered stick of butter). But as vegetables become a larger part of the American diet, chefs around town are throwing leafy greens, roots, and even the occasional fruit into the deep fryer. This is nothing new: Tempura has been around for nearly half a millennium, fried pickles had their moment in the sun a few years ago, and chances are if you can fry it, somebody already has. But these non-potato fries are still worth seeking and celebrating. Here are five great versions in NYC
5. Avocado fries at El Almacen, 557 Driggs Avenue, Brooklyn; 718-218-7284
This Argentinian canteen with a shopkeep's aesthetic grills up plenty of meat, but the restaurant's avocado fries -- coarsely breaded and crunchy, the avocado rendered pudding soft -- hold their own. Tangy and floral, a cup of yerba mate ketchup sits to the side. Frankly, these babies are just fine condiment-free.
4. Fried green beans at Sticky's Finger Joint, 31 West 8th Street, 212-777-7131
While this fast casual ode to childhood has engaged in some questionable practices -- an appearance on Bobby Flay's 3 Days to Open being the least questionable among them -- the greaseless chicken fingers here are an incredible achievement. Had enough breaded poultry? The obvious accompaniment to fried food is more fried food, and these battered green beans, with their thin, shatter-crisp coating, make a good companion to the bird. Dip them into one of Sticky's proprietary sauces -- we suggest sticking with an aioli, like tomato or garlicky "Vampire."