Where to Find Great Guacamole

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

ottosguac.jpg
Scarlett Lindeman
It is sometimes said that a good cheesemonger can tell, to the hour, when a wheel of camembert should be eaten. An expert's deep understanding of ripening agents, bloomy rinds, and complex environmental conditions allows him or her to zero in on a cheese's zenith, so you can schedule your dinner party around a wedge of Roquefort or a Lazy Lady goat and ensure optimal eating.

The new grab-n-go taqueria in the East Village, Otto's Tacos (141 Second Avenue, 646-678-4018), has a similar way with avocados. You get the sense that the cooks here have an intimate knowledge of the fruit's lifespan, so they can detect the ideal level of ripeness to transform the buttery flesh to a rough green mash.

In a world of guacamole laced with peas, pomegranate seeds, and blue cheese, the version here -- made with a pinch of finely diced serrano and white onion, julienned sprinkles of cilantro, salt and lime -- is refreshingly restrained. Served in little plastic to-go tubs with freshly-fried chips that taste strangely like popcorn ($3.75), you will try and save some for later and, happily, fail.

Oh, and the tacos are pretty good, too.

Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city's best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas. She writes the ¡Oye! Comida column for Fork in the Road.




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2 comments
Feinstein
Feinstein

Wow.., the author of this article also reviews the new Taco Bell breakfast menu.. so she obviously has quite the 'skilled' palate.  Guacomole is a very simple dish.  Why, in this city it is treated as the penultimate of cuisine is beyond my understanding.  Why it is also priced as high as the rarest of cheeses is also beyond my understanding.  Sorry new york that you are on the ultimate quest for; avocados, cilantro, salt, pepper, lime juice, tomatoes and onions.

Dura Mater
Dura Mater

No way NYC, The original Tequila Sunrise on Northern blvd and Steinway...long island city is where it's at! Actually going tonight with friends :D

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