An Early Taste of Daruma-Ya, Now Open in Tribeca
A few weeks ago, Laura Shunk paid a visit to soba master Shuichi Kotani to learn the secrets of the then-forthcoming soba at Daruma-Ya (428 Greenwich Street, 212-274-0428), which opened earlier this month in the former Greenwich Grill space above Sushi Azabu.
All photos by Hannah Palmer Egan Lobster uni yaki at Daruma-Ya
The space is largely a holdover from Greenwich Grill. Plan-Do-See group, who runs both restaurants at 428 Greenwich, barely touched bar nor dining room but for a quick once-over with a paintbrush. But the restaurant has been transformed into a traditional Japanese izakaya -- where guests enjoy small snacks and drinks -- and soba house, which serves what's arguably the best buckwheat noodle in a town overrun with ramen.
Chef Nobuhito Dosei, who spent time at Michelin-starred Mori Sushi in L.A., heads up the izakaya kitchen, while soba master Shuichi Kotani gives his undivided attention to the noodles.
The tasting menu is a small splurge at $115, but it's worth every penny. It brings seven courses, beginning with a trio of small dishes, and runs through several more before landing at the main event: long bamboo trays of excellent buckwheat noodles.
On the next page, a closer look at the tasting menu.