Dovetail Serves One of the City's Best Upscale Brunches
All photos by Zachary Feldman
This week, I visited Narcissa (21 Cooper Square, 212-228-3344), the well-groomed farm-to-table restaurant in the Standard East Village hotel where John Fraser lets his DOH-approved hairnet down and transforms vegetables in a kitchen full of Rotisol rotisserie ovens. It's the sibling restaurant to the chef's flagship venture Dovetail (103 West 77th Street, 212-362-3800), a handsome, Michelin-starred New American place plugged into the ground floor of an Upper West Side townhouse.
Dovetail's four-course dinner prix fixe is roughly $115 after tax and tip. That jumps to a cool $209 if you factor in wine pairings, which makes the $32 three-course brunch a particularly great deal, joining the ranks of lunchtime steals like Del Posto's $39 affair and Bouley's five-course tasting for $55. For less than most pairs of pants, the restaurant's buttoned-up service and restrained elegance in the kitchen make brunch at Dovetail a serious detour.
As at dinner, the weekend meal begins with a quartet of canapés: candy-sized truffled arancini, house-cured salmon tea sandwiches crowned with saline roe, shots of smooth, creamy sunchoke veloute, and cups of greek yogurt so thick it eats like sour cream, completely drowning out the slivers of grape and granola that accompany it. Dovetail also puts together a wonderful bread service, in this case tailored for brunch with infallibly soft blueberry muffins and sweet corn biscuits served with honey butter.