Here's What You'll Order at Taquitoria if You're in the Know

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

taquitorialindeman.jpg
Scarlett Lindeman
The classically trained and 7-Eleven camps meet at Taquitoria (168 Ludlow Street, 212-780-0121), a Lower East Side outpost that puts out the deep-fried rolled tacos known as flautas or taquitos, depending on your school of thought.

Taquitoria is in the tradition of the one-dish restaurant, a strange trend that has kitchens dedicated solely to rice pudding, chicken nuggets, or loaded potatoes. This one is a slim standing-room-only address, with a menu board, a galley kitchen dominated by a deep-fryer, and a couple of round counters, where you can hover over your paper carton of freshly-fried taquitos, three or five to an order ($5-8).

The corn tortillas are wrapped around proteins with provenance -- Creekstone Farms beef, Bell & Evan's chicken, Berkshire pork -- though it's questionable as to whether you can really taste the difference in a deep-fried, loaded taquito. No matter. The streets are dark, it's 2 a.m., and you can eat with your hands. The purists will choose to have their orders doused in avocado salsa with a scrim of shredded romaine and grated cotija cheese, while those with a soft spot in their hearts for the revolving electric grills at gas stations will favor the cheesy version with a pour-over of nacho cheese, sour cream, and a pickled jalapeño.

Those in-the-know will choose a bastardized version with the toppings of both.

Scarlett Lindeman is a Brooklyn-based writer, covering the city's best taquerias, fondas, and cantinas. She writes the ¡Oye! Comida column for Fork in the Road.




Location Info

Taquitoria

168 Ludlow St., New York, NY

Category: Restaurant

My Voice Nation Help
0 comments

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...