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» Fork in the Road «

by Sarah DiGregorio | email: sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

Fork in the Road Explores Hunts Point Eats

Posted by Sarah DiGregorio at 8:56 AM, March 26, 2008

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This week, FitR brings you to the South Bronx neighborhood that feeds the city—Hunts Point.

The vast wholesale fish, meat and produce markets in Hunts Point make up the largest food distribution center in the world. These markets are the most vital link in the supply chain that carries food to New York. Much of the food you're buying in markets or eating in restaurants comes through the markets, which operate all night to ship food to the sleeping city.

So, where to eat in the neighborhood that feeds the city? We found an amazing broccoli rabe hero, crackly-skinned pernil, great Southern-style barbecue, and outrageously delicious (and cheap) Dominican salt cod stew.

We also met a refugee from the Manhattan restaurant world who worked for Donatella Arpaia for years, but left to open his own spot on Hunts Point Avenue, close to where he grew up.

The neighborhood looks industrial and gritty, but it's not the dangerous place it used to be. Now, it seems more like a small town, where the cops can be persuaded not to write a parking ticket if they know you well enough. There's also great people-watching (and plenty of strip clubs). What's not to love?

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