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» Fork in the Road «

by Sarah DiGregorio | email: sdigregorio@villagevoice.com

The Great Chopped Liver Taste-Off

Posted by Sarah DiGregorio at 8:13 AM, March 20, 2008

liver.jpg

Liver-haters, avert your eyes. Chopped liver tastes a lot better than it photographs.
But who makes the best chopped liver in the city? I recruited an intrepid group of tasters to blind taste six iconic versions—the good, the bad and the ugly after the jump.

Meet the contestants:
Fairway
Zabar's
Russ and Daughters
2nd Avenue Deli
Eagle Provisions (a small Polish market on 5th Avenue in south Park Slope)
Katz's

We set out six little bowls of the stuff, and started tasting, not knowing which was which. Predictably, much of the judging is a matter of taste—eggs or no, strong livery taste or mild, smooth or chunky?

But after much debate, and many bad jokes (what am I...?), we crowned Russ and Daughters and Katz's the joint title holders of Best Chopped Liver.

We liked Russ and Daughters for its bits of caramelized onion, clean, mild livery taste and judicious amount of chopped boiled egg.

Katz's had an appetizing consistency—light and almost fluffy—and a nicely balanced sweet-savory flavor.

As for the others, Eagle Provisions (the only non-icon in the bunch) had a surprisingly strong showing. Their chopped liver was assertive without being overwhelming, coarse and meaty.

I'm sorry to say that I hated 2nd Avenue Deli's chopped liver. I'm sure that makes me a complete chopped liver idiot in many people's minds, but there it is. That version was very dark and dense, and tasted overwhelmingly livery. One taster noted that it was the most authentically Eastern European of the bunch.

Zabar's version was also polarizing—its big dose of chopped egg was enjoyed by some and hated by others. One taster said it tasted of sulphur, and the liver-hater in the group (who bowed out of the tasting) said he couldn't think of anything worse than sulphurous chopped liver. I liked the eggy flavor, but each to his own.

Fairway's chopped liver was solidly run-of-the-mill, prompting no strong reactions either way.

Did we miss your favorite chopped liver place? Email me and let me know.

more: taste test

comments

how could you not include barney greengrass?
not a huge fan of the place overall - but the chopped liver is the best

Posted by: at March 21, 2008 1:02 PM

The Barney Greengrass CL is in a higher league.

Posted by: A. Nonny Muss at March 21, 2008 1:16 PM

Agreed re: Barney Greengrass. You might as well scrap the above taste test. It's like rating jazz trumpeters without Louis Armstrong!

Posted by: Ed Newman at March 22, 2008 4:05 PM

What was Lenny Tristano's favorite?

Posted by: Robert Brown at March 23, 2008 12:03 AM

What was Lenny Tristano's favorite?

Posted by: Robert Brown at March 23, 2008 12:03 AM

There's a brand sold in the freezer section of supermarkets called International Glatt. It's made from beef liver, so it's got a much stronger taste than chicken liver. I think it's better than any liver I've tasted from any store.

Posted by: Barry at March 23, 2008 12:29 AM

Sammy's Roumanian!!

Posted by: bruxx at March 23, 2008 3:24 PM

Just had some Barney Greengrass chopped liver today - truly really very good. I have not tried Russ & Daughters but will sometime soon though I'm not a huge fan of too much egg!

Posted by: julesj66 at April 17, 2008 11:58 PM

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