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Featured

My Rant: Hello 2010 Michelin Guide to New York City. Now Go Home!

By Robert Sietsema, Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 8:33AM
Comments (9)
Categories: Sietsema

michelin.jpg
​
Get your radial-tire ass in gear and lay rubber out of here, Michelin Man. We've already got plenty of unreliable sources telling us where to eat. Zagat is bad enough, with its fake democracy, and endless reiteration of the same top-shelf places.

In Europe you had a modicum of respect: We knew, for example, that when we chose to eat in a Michelin one-star place that it was going to be excellent...and very expensive, too, but at the least it would be the experience of a lifetime. What, exactly, does one star mean here?

What would possess you to get involved in American eats? We concede you know French food and maybe some Italian food, but do you know anything about the 100-odd other cuisines we have here? How could you begin to understand Italian-American? Or Chinese? Some excellent regional Chinese restaurants have opened in the last year, every bit as upscale as many of the one-stars on your list.

How do you do your research, since you're so obviously based in France? Long ago, a friend and food insider spoke disparagingly about the methods used by the Michelin guides. He said something to this effect: "It's, like, one guy in a rumpled suit sitting at the bar and ordering one app, one main, and one drink, and that's how Michelin rates restaurants. Very few places receive more attention than that."

Can you assure me, Michelin Man, that you spend the estimated $300,000 or so per year in expenses it would take to analyze just the new places -- forget about keeping up with the places that opened during the last decade, or the ethnic places that don't fit your vaunted idea of cuisine? And, if you do it with an army of reviewers, how on earth do you coordinate their activities? Or is it like the James Beard ballot, which permits any judge to vote on places they haven't been to? If you hope to defend yourself, Rubber Man, you'd better provide some convincing statistics. Just for starters, exactly how many of New York's 50,000 restaurants and small cafes did you actually visit?.

Here's an obvious but telling objection: the idea that the restaurant Rhong Tiam deserves one star is ludicrous. It's not a bad place, and I've even enjoyed my three meals there, but it doesn't even deserve to be in the top 20 Thai restaurants in town. The service is often amateurish, too. Is it possible you chose this place at random? Or read about it in Time Out and decided it was needed to "balance" the ethnic mix of restaurants? Or to give you some "street cred"? Either way, it is a choice that doesn't ring true, especially when you compare it with a random one-star in France. Is it possible that you don't think the food is as good here as it is in France?

Running my eye along your star list, I have many more questions. Why one star for the newly opened Corton, helmed by a notoriously unreliable chef, with no nod to WD-50 and Degustation? And, why oh why, do you so obviously hate Mario Batali? Is it because he doesn't give a fuck about French food?

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Comments (9)

cmartineau says:

Is Michelin exportable to any place, really? Food in France is great, but it's all the same. Even Paris has very little in the way of ethnic cuisine. How can a committee of people with so little exposure to other cuisines judge them? I mean, in HK, there are more French restaurants with two Michelin stars than Chinese!

Posted On: Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 9:25AM
Robert SietsemaAuthor Profile Page says:

That's amazing, Chantal, I had no idea they presumed to do a Hong Kong guide. I just know they're cheaping out on us and not spending any expense money, meaning either that they cadge free meals in restaurants or ask their "reviewers" to spend their own money, and I'm inclining toward the latter. Mounting a good review program takes years and is mega-expensive. And operating in a foreign city is extremely disorienting--just look at how Zagat established a Montreal guide in the 1990s, and then cut and ran immediately.

Posted On: Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 10:02AM
Seth Gordon says:

For those keeping score at home - that's Rhong-Tiam, 1; Tabla, 0.

Michelin - at least as regards NYC - is a joke. The near-complete lack of non-Japanese Asian restaurants is a travesty, and the actual-complete lack of Latin cuisine is just plain shameful. There are any number of places that should be in contention for at least one star - "a very good restaurant in its category" according to their criteria - Rayuela, Toloache and Paladar come to mind, just off the top of my head - but there are obviously many others. And as for Chinese, there's countless examples. Don't tell me that Oriental Garden, Ping's & Fuleen's aren't very good restaurants in their category.

I think it's simply that the mysterious reviewers don't explore very much - I doubt anyone from Michelin ever bothered Googling "Latin Restaurants NYC" to see what came up. While one couldn't expect them to visit all the tens of thousands of restaurants we have here, it wouldn't be hard to find the top examples, by general consensus of local critics, and give them a whirl.

Their anti-Batali bias I'm not as sure about, as Casa Mono and Del Posto both made the list (both at one star, so I suppose that makes them equal dining experiences...?) but the fact that Babbo isn't on there does make one wonder, especially with the heaping of stars upon "Midtown Mario" Michael White. Nothing against White, mind you. But if Alto's worth two stars, so is Babbo. For that matter, so is Falai IMHO, but maybe he's under their radar.

But that said, there's no accounting for taste, and any guide or top ten list or whatever is going to have its dissenters, but some omissions are just so glaring with Michelin that it's hard for anyone to take them particularly seriously.

Don't even get me started on their three-star choices...

------------

Side note/fact check: WD-50 did get a star, and Corton got two, not one.

Posted On: Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 2:52PM
rsietsema says:

Thanks for your comments, Seth, and your corrections, too.

Posted On: Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 3:00PM
Zach says:

Hilarious! Even more funny is the fact that they thought picking Rhong Tiam would endear them to all the people who are tearing the choice apart.

Posted On: Tuesday, Oct. 6 2009 @ 4:55PM
Aaron says:

Their dislike of Batali is easily explained by eating in one of his restaurants. No stars for Babbo makes a lot more sense than one star for Del Posto or Casa Mono.

Posted On: Wednesday, Oct. 7 2009 @ 6:37PM
Robert SietsemaAuthor Profile Page says:

Aaron, I'm no fan of Babbo, either, but I swoon when I eat in Lupa, and have had a couple of great meals at Del Posto.

Posted On: Wednesday, Oct. 7 2009 @ 6:40PM
rima says:

you know Robert usually I'm a big fan of yours and like a lot of your picks but this rant makes you sound a little nuts plus you did some seriously sloppy fact-checking. I don't love the frenchies but I did at least look at the red book (which you clearly did not) and you seem to have just made all this up. they gave corton 2 stars, not 1. wd-50 still has its star from the past years, which I agree it totally deserves. (he's a genius.) there are more than 2 bib gourmands in their Chinatown list and they surprisingly do have spots in flushing, sunset park, Elmhurst and who knows where else. I could go on but you rant that they didn't do the research and I'm wondering if you did yours either? I think I've got to find another source to follow.....

Posted On: Thursday, Oct. 8 2009 @ 3:57PM
Robert SietsemaAuthor Profile Page says:

Thanks for your comments, rima, I was working from a press release and hadn't seen the actual volume. I still believe that they don't spend much money and don't do much research. Their upper end awards seem pro-forma, while their low-end recommendations are absurd. A friend who has studies their Hong Kong guide says that it's the same thing there--they simply haven't put the time and effort necessary into studying the foodscape before flinging around their vaunted one, two, or three stars.

Posted On: Thursday, Oct. 8 2009 @ 5:08PM

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