​In line with locavoric principles, the cheese-eating public has shown a greater interest in cheeses produced in our part of the country, which means New York and New England. Of course, this is partly due to the efforts of Anne Saxelby at Saxelby Cheese, but ideas like this are infectious and develop their own momentum.

​Open only a few days, Lucy's Whey is a new cheese shop in the Chelsea Market, part of a warren of retail spaces being built into what had been an exhibition hall. The cheese space is just opposite a new Jacques Torres location, heralded only by a small yellow sign on the market's main drag.

Lucy's is a branch of a Montauk store, and the majority of the cheeses come from Vermont or New York's Hudson Valley. The cheeses are well-labeled, and the staff is eager to provide a running commentary. There are cow, goat, and sheep cheeses, and a couple of mixed-milk varieties. and the collection includes such well-known names as Jasper Hill and Consider Bardwell. Vermont cheeses come from West Pawlett, Whitney, Cornwall, Weston, Putney, and Greensboro. There's a cheese from Galax, Virginia, but the furthest-flung cheese comes from Milton, Iowa.

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Several cheeses from New York's Old Chatham area were sampled, including a washed-rind cow's milk cheese with a semi-soft paste called Hudson Red, and an interesting series of flavored chevres, one of which was laced with horseradish, and another with pumpkin pie spices, both made by Nettle Meadow. They seemed like cool things to spread on canapes for a party.

​A selection of confits and crackers is provided as accompaniments to the cheeses, and someday soon Lucy's Whey will be dispensing paninis.

Next: Savor some of our other I, Locavore features