Elaineperlov.blogspot.com

​Almost a decade ago, Jeollado was one of the most popular and regularly packed of the East Village's numerous discount sushi restaurants. It was cavernous, clamorous, and not exceptionally concerned with authenticity: the restaurant probably went through more Hellmann's than the average grocery store deli counter.

Jeollado wasn't particularly amazing, but it was emblematic of an eating experience particular to the neighborhood in the early to mid-aughts -- exuberant, a bit off-kilter, and not overly self-conscious about the gentrification it was helping to promote -- so Eater's news of its closure feels a bit like a requiem, if not for a dream, then for sushi rolls with names like Justin and Amy and the giddy novelty of being able to eat so many of them for such a low price. One can only begin to imagine what will move in to the Jeollado space, but chances are a giant, empty former garage will attract more than its share of suitors with ambition and vanity more bloated than a perturbed puffer fish.