​The nearly unpronounceable kolokithokeftedes are fried zucchini patties served with an ouzo-laced tomato dipping sauce.

This week, Counter Culture triremes into Ovelia, a modernistic boite in Astoria that retains its ancient outlook. The portions are generous, the tariff light. Anything that comes with skordalia--the garlicky Greek potato dip--is fab, including grilled sand shark, zucchini fritters, and grilled eggplant. Stick with the traditional Greek dishes (including a wonderful homemade sausage called loukanika), and you'll have a great meal.

​For lovers of lots of meat in lumps, there's Ovelia piklia, including sweetbreads and veal liver.

​Served with a shitload of excellent fries, the moussaka is a tuck-in of major proportions.

​A well-executed Greek salad is a gastronomic thing of beauty.