​ While I was working on the review of Lan Sheng, a new Sichuan spot on 39th Street, the restaurant become unexpectedly embroiled in a labor dispute, which may or may not actually concern it. Read the whole story in my column this week. But about the food, there is no debate--it's good, and occasionally great. Above, the classic dan dan noodles ($5.50), chewy and tingly.

​ Rabbit fillet with millet ($16) does not seem to actually contain any of the grain. Instead, it's basically cold, pickled bunny, topped with a ton of pickled chiles.

​ Delicate, pork-filled Chengdu wantons ($5.50) are sprinkled with ground Sichuan peppercorns, and slippery in a chile-oil bath.

​ Cold sliced conch ($9.95), agreeably crunchy, is dyed pink with chile vinaigrette, and served with a bale of scallions.