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» Fork in the Road «

by Sarah DiGregorio | email: sdigregorio@villagevoice.com | weekly column

Fried Clam Porn

Posted by Sarah DiGregorio at 8:40 AM, March 31, 2008

clams.jpg

Isn't she gorgeous?

Spring is when our thoughts turn to fried clams. Really good ones are hard to come by in the five boroughs, so yesterday we headed out to Rockville Center on Long Island to Bigelow's New England Fried Clams, recommended by Serious Eats.

Bigelow's has been in the same spot since the 1930s, and its interior doesn't look like it has changed much since then—one small room with a horseshoe shaped counter and wooden beamed walls. Almost everything on the menu is fried, and sizzle of hot oil frequently bubbles up from the row of fryers.

The fried clam plate is made with the Ipswitch variety, and comes with either fries or slaw. The clams are fat and briny and the crispy coating is thin and delicate; it just needs a little bit of salt. The plate costs $22, which seems high, but Ipswitch clams are expensive these days, and anyway, beggars can't be choosers.

Bigelow's New England Fried Clams
79 N Long Beach Rd
Rockville Centre, NY
(516) 678-3878

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