All photos by Zachary Feldman, Village Voice Korean Tortilla Espanola
Mischievous restaurateurs and would-be catamaran captains Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis are up to their old tricks in Long Island City, tweaking the M. Wells Dinette menu with a reprise of their popular spaghetti sandwich and kicking off brunch service at their quirky gem of a steakhouse. After flirting with an Easter brunch last spring, they've settled on set Sunday hours of 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and we popped in to check out the inaugural service. But first, a disclaimer. Here's my opinion on brunch: If you have strong opinions about brunch, you ought to take a long look in the mirror and then destroy that mirror with your face. Or, in a move that's considerably less dangerous to your outsides (though with $15 sides of seared foie gras, your insides might not fare as well), you might try destroying the daytime weekend meal served at M. Wells Steakhouse (43-15 Crescent Street, Queens; 718-786-9060) instead.