Walk into Buvette (42 Grove Street, 212-255-3590) during the throes of its dinner service, and your best bet is to surrender yourself to its rhythm. You will not find the icy hostess who guards the threshold of most New York restaurants, keeping a hold of the table turns and reservation book. You'll likely feel like you're in the way as you scan the room for a seat, and once you find one, you'll very likely be sharing elbow room with a stranger. It is exactly how chef-owner Jody Williams intended it, and so long as you're able to give up formal dining's rigid rules for a night, you'll probably have a great time.
Gentl & Hyers