Forget the ambitious newcomers occupying the rabid media for a moment. The spectrum of Mexican eateries that our city has on offer is a panoply that gets even more diverse when you head to the lower tier. Here, there are bodegas that act as taquerias. There are grocery stores that morph into lounges when the sun goes down. There are carts that generate street-level salons. And there are restaurants where the dining room functions as a dive bar. At Mexican Restaurant Tenampa (9614 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens; 718-335-7359), located in Corona, buckets of Victoria outnumber the place settings, and the waitresses function as bouncers, cutting off young men when they've had enough.