Get Ready for Holiday Feasting at East Harlem's La Cabaña

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Torta-Cubano.jpg
Scarlett Lindeman for the Village Voice
On a corner in East Harlem is La Cabaña (2277 First Avenue), a small restaurant with just a few tables that is, nonetheless, roomier than most bodegas-cum-taquerias that have you leaning into shelves of dry goods. There's a steam table of various stews, and a capacious kitchen, by New York standards. The waitress invites you to come take a peek at the ripples of beef in salsa verde with strips of nopales, the steamed rice dotted with diced carrot and peas, the pork spareribs sporting Christmas colors in a salsa of green tomatillos with flecks of red chile de arbol, and the two kinds of beans. She uncovers the compartments with a Vanna White flair.

More »

Mounting Cosme's Iron Gate for a Transportive Dessert

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Cosme-Amaranth-Dessert.jpg
Photos by Scarlett Lindeman for the Village Voice
For something that doesn't actually produce sound waves, the hype surrounding Cosme (35 East 21st Street, 212-913-9659), acclaimed Mexican chef Enrique Olvera's first restaurant in the United States, has been deafening. Cosme has answered to the frenzy with a firm abutment, walling out tardy reservation holders, the beggars, and the unannounced. Unsurprisingly, the restaurant is booked through 2014, and those who have attempted to get their food in the door as walk-ins at odd hours have also been turned away.

More »

Corona's Famous Tortas Neza Finds a New Home

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Torta-Encebollada.jpg
If you have spent considerable time in Corona, Queens, in the past decade, no doubt you know of Galdino Molinero. He is the torta master behind Tortas Neza, an emigre from Mexico City whose long path toward minor sandwich stardom started with selling sandwiches out of a backpack. He graduated to a bicycle, then a cart, a truck, and eventually a brick-and-mortar shop, an arc that had him toggling along the main artery of the borough over the course of 10 years, from Woodside to Corona.

More »

Jackson Heights Mexican Restaurant Maravillas Is Marvelous

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Maravillas-Salsa-Verde.jpg
The steam table shines inside Maravillas (37-64 90th Street, Queens; 718-507-5678), a Mexican restaurant in Jackson Heights that keeps the lights dimmed low. "Somos los Maravillosos en Comida Casera" says the menu. This means, "We are marvelous with homestyle food," which is certainly true of the soups and stews, braises, and anything saucey.

More »

Grasshoppers Are in Season! Here's Where to Get Them

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

chapulineslasuperior.jpg
'Tis the season for chapulines, grasshoppers of many different sizes and stripes that spring up throughout the summer and are harvested in early autumn as food. In markets throughout central and southern Mexico, chapulines are sold in big, rusty mounds; they're often toasted on the comal, seasoned with salt and lime, and eaten as a popular snack food.

More »

Where to Find a Great Suadero Taco

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Taco-de-Suadero.jpg
The beef hits the table, hot with trails of steam. The dark shards march down the center of pale tortillas lying flat, wreathed with chopped onion and cilantro, a spoonful of avocado sauce, a blaze of green. The filling is suadero, the namesake at Nuevo Tacos al Suadero (9406 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens; 718-429-0555) in Jackson Heights, and even in harsh fluorescent light, it beckons.

More »

It's Almost National Nacho Day! Try the New Meathook Nachos

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Meathook-Sandwich-Shop-Nachos.jpg
As if you needed an excuse to consume nachos: National Nacho Day is tomorrow (Thursday), and that is clearly a legitimate reason. Long thought of as the best nachos in Williamsburg are the Cadillac nachos at beloved dive The Commodore -- the platter is also one of the most solid items on the menu. But there is a new contender for the neighborhood crown for the artful arrangement of cheese on chips. The Meathook Sandwich Shop (495 Lorimer Street, Brooklyn; 718-302-4665) is serving nachos ($8) on Saturdays and Sundays (and tomorrow, for happy hour, from 4 to 7 p.m.), piling up the Nixtamal Tortilleria tortilla chips and loading on the toppings.

More »

Missing Mexico? Go Eat the Green Chorizo at Cafe el Presidente

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Green-Chorizo-Cafe-el-Pres.jpg
In Mexico, there are jalapeño, salsa inglesa, and habanero chip flavors that, sadly, we never see in the United States. But if you're missing the flavors found only within the borders of our southern neighbor, there is a green chorizo taco at Cafe el Presidente (30 West 24th Street, 212-242-3491) that can curb your disappointment. Savory crumbles of pork sausage on homemade corn tortillas with a sprinkling of cilantro and onion are an amplification of garlic and lard, layers of chiles, and vibrating herbs -- they're like a mainline to Mexico City.

More »

Mexican Restaurant El Tenampa Is a Dive Bar That Serves a Great Hangover Cure

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Tenampa-Carne-Asada.jpg
Forget the ambitious newcomers occupying the rabid media for a moment. The spectrum of Mexican eateries that our city has on offer is a panoply that gets even more diverse when you head to the lower tier. Here, there are bodegas that act as taquerias. There are grocery stores that morph into lounges when the sun goes down. There are carts that generate street-level salons. And there are restaurants where the dining room functions as a dive bar. At Mexican Restaurant Tenampa (9614 Roosevelt Avenue, Queens; 718-335-7359), located in Corona, buckets of Victoria outnumber the place settings, and the waitresses function as bouncers, cutting off young men when they've had enough.

More »

Ex-Chef of La Superior Has a New Sauce Brand and a Forthcoming Food Truck

Categories: ¡Oye! Comida

Gaxiola-resized.jpg

The smell of blistered chiles and toasted nuts rides a current of wind blowing down Morgan Avenue in East Williamsburg. The aroma perfumes the air, fills the nostrils, and then is swept away by the thunderous trucks that rumble north. It comes from Xilli, a commercial kitchen in the basement of an industrial building on that avenue, and the current project of Nacxitl Gaxiola, the former chef of La Superior and Pulqueria.


More »
Loading...