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Coney Island's ancient pizza parlor Totonno's reopened recently after a five-month hiatus following Hurricane Sandy, which flooded the premises and did massive damage. Two years ago this month, the venerable pizzeria was nearly destroyed by fire. Could it completely recover following these two disasters?

FiTR waited a discreet two weeks after the reopening, then pedaled over there to see if it remained the best pizzeria in New York, and possibly the best in the world.

[In connection with a feature that will be appearing tomorrow in the Village Voice, I've revisited half a dozen barbecues, old places I hadn't been to in years, and new places I hadn't had a chance to visit before. Here are some thumbnail sketches of my experiences.]

It's a branch of the sprawling and diversified B.R. Guest restaurant chain, so maybe you wouldn't expect Wildwood Barbeque to be very good. But, surprisingly, it can be quite good. The original pitmaster was Matt Fisher, now at Fletcher's Brooklyn Barbecue, and the place smells like hardwood smoke the minute you step in the front door.

[In connection with a feature that will be appearing this Wednesday in the Village Voice, I've revisited half a dozen barbecues, old places I hadn't been to in years, and new places I hadn't had a chance to visit before. Here are some thumbnail sketches of my experiences.]

If you're a fan of great barbecue, it's easy to ignore Brother Jimmy's. When I went 10 years ago, I found the 'cue awful. But maybe I wasn't focusing on the right things. Or maybe the place has simply gotten better, as the quality of New York barbecue has risen dramatically.

As Danny Meyer increasingly focuses his attention on an expanding Shake Shack empire, seeding locations up and down the Eastern Seaboard, you've got to wonder, is he still paying attention to his white tablecloth joints? To answer this question, a friend and I returned to his first restaurant, Union Square Café, which celebrated its 27th birthday this month.

[See More: Telepan Retains Its Luster -- and Then Some | Urbanspace Meatpacking: A First Food Foray]

CIA grad Bill Telepan had worked at Le Cirque, Gotham, and Ansonia -- the first really ambitious restaurant on the Upper West Side -- when he was propelled to fame by a three-star Times review of Judson Grill. After the untimely demise of that establishment, the chef opened the restaurant that currently bears his name on the Upper West Side in 2005. Even though the place is named after him, he observed in an interview, "It's not about me, even though the name is Telepan."

[See More Web-Only Reviews: Urbanspace Meatpacking: A First Food Foray | Searching for Guy Fieri At Guy's American Kitchen and Bar]

Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, the tasty countdown leading up to our "Best of 2012" issue. Tune in every day (weekends, too!) for a new dish from the Fork in the Road team.

[See More 100 Dishes: Hot Bone Marrow Tacos at Lulu & Po | Hot and Spicy Whole Flounder at Rural Restaurant]

[See more Revisits: Perry St | Barbuto | Daniel]

No sooner had the ink dried on the print edition of the Counter Culture review of Food Gallery 32 -- Koreatown's fabulous three-level fast food spot - than reports were coming in about stalls in the complex that seemed to be on the verge of closing. Well, changes have occurred in the last month at the wildly popular property, but they actually don't seem to amount to much. In fact, the repertoire of dishes at the seven counters has expanded slightly, if you take into account both the additions and the subtractions. Leading Fork in the Road to believe that all the franchises represented have a common owner, who's only attempting to adjust the offerings at the counters, not change the overall mix of food.

[See More Revisits: Excellent Prix Fixe Lunch Deal at Vongerichten's | Jonathan Waxman's Barbuto]

When Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened Perry St in 2005, it was his eighth dining establishment in New York. His intention was to return to his professional roots by opening an uncomplicated and unpretentious neighborhood bistro, as his original triumph Jo Jo had been. Perry St was located in the West Village in one of three newly built Richard Meier glass towers on the West Side Highway facing the Hudson River, a dramatic location but an isolated one. What's more, the chef lived upstairs, so the place would feel almost like his own commissary, and one suspected the august French figure of sneaking downstairs from his upstairs aerie for a bite of cheese or a small Alsatian sausage in the middle of the night.

Named after a beloved dog, whose image appears in line drawing on the shirts of the waiters, Barbuto was a project of chef Jonathan Waxman that occurred in a somewhat fallow period of his career. When it opened in 2004, it was decidedly off the beaten path, a canteen in a West Village photo studio with a wonderful location on bucolic Washington Street, open to the summer breezes off the Hudson a block distant. Early on, the diners were models, photographers, and ad people; eventually the place developed an avid neighborhood clientele.