Photos by Zachary Feldman, Village Voice
When it comes to ice cream, the city is saturated with saturated fat (and a few righteous healthier options to boot). Frozen-treat fanatics swarm the newest parlors, getting cross-eyed over foie gras drumsticks and provocative scoops like sriracha, carrot, cheddar cheese, and smoked salmon. This past spring, curious folks waited in line down the block when Nick Morgenstern opened his eponymous shop, dishing out $18 banana splits and ten varieties of chocolate and vanilla — they did it again when he launched breakfast (avocado ice cream toast, anyone?) earlier this month. But for every outlet devoted to gussying up frozen dairy, I'm often reminded of the restaurant ice creams I've known and loved, crafted by incredibly talented pastry (and occasionally savory) chefs. Sometimes they're served in dishes unto themselves; occasionally they're the stars of composed desserts, doled out as dainty quenelles. As a way of championing their pastry programs, more restaurants should offer ice cream to-go, or partner with parlors that can get the job done.