Can an ingredient be too local? The gelatinous seaweed served at New York's newest pop-up restaurant is scraped each morning from the bottom of the Staten Island Ferry and strewn over sheets of fried kale. It's slippery stuff and it tastes dangerous, like it could kill you. It just might.
For the price of $120, the menu at '13 seems very short, but you'll be grateful for that once things get started. A tasting in late March allowed me to choose four dishes from a list of six, all of which were hopelessly underseasoned. I later learned that this kitchen's one luxury, a delivery of Welsh sea salt made with water from the Isle of Anglesey, had been delayed en route (a bag of the crystals arrives by sailboat once or twice a month).
Spring's first green nettles, foraged from the cracks in the chef's driveway, and from the path leading from his garden shed to the back door, were dehydrated to a crisp and shredded with raw knotweed and wild catnip, then served with a lukewarm shot of smoked puddle water. More »