Have a Taste of Zachary Feldman's Review of Root & Bone

Categories: The Dish

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David Penner
Zachary Feldman talks southern cuisine in this week's review of Root & Bone (200 East 3rd Street), the East Village restaurant from Top Chef paramours Jeff McInnis and Janine Booth.

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A Taste of Zachary Feldman's Review of El Vez

Categories: The Dish

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David Penner
Zachary Feldman visited El Vez (259 Vesey Street), Stephen Starr's Battery Park City neo-cantina, for this week's review, and he got off to an awkward start. "...at El Vez, mega-restaurateur Stephen Starr's local outpost of his decade-old Mexican standby in Philadelphia, the waitstaff is as hot for answers as a team of film noir private dicks," he writes. "The call for orders comes suddenly -- in one table's case, a server set upon patrons immediately after handing out menus. This, and other normally innocuous requests are repeated often enough throughout the course of a meal to be borderline intrusive. There's no doubt that turnover is important, but guests shouldn't be made to feel as if their asses are worth less than the seats they occupy."

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Bear Restaurant Is Running a Dumpling Pop-Up This Summer

Categories: The Dish

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All photos by Bradley Hawks
Astoria's nouveau-European Russian hotspot Bear (12-14 31st Avenue, Astoria, 917-396-4939) is typically a refined operation, but this summer, the place has morphed into a pop-up dumpling shop. "There is a beach right down the street, and we want people to feel they can come in flip-flops if they want to," explains chef-owner Natasha Pogrebinsky. "We are just trying to create a relaxed vibe, with a menu intended for sharing -- and maybe get back to our roots a little. The blend of pork and veal, the pasta, and the vinegar are like the holy trinity of dumplings. But beyond the basics, there is a lot of room for creativity."

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A Ramen Corn Dog Hits Jersey City

Categories: The Dish

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All photos by Adam Robb

Six months after opening Union Republic (340 3rd Street, Jersey City), a noodle bar and bistro in downtown Jersey City, partners Noah Sexton and chef Gregory Torrech are getting to roll out their summer menu and introduce a ramen corn dog. The 100 percent Angus beef sausage is crafted by in-house butcher UR Prime, battered in cornmeal, and deep fried in knots of ramen. And if the bottles of Sriracha on the counter don't bring enough heat, the frank arrives sided with housemade kimchi relish and whole grain mustard.


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A Bite of This Week's Review of The Gander

Categories: The Dish

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Dominic Perri
Zachary Feldman heads to The Gander (15 West 18th Street, 646-682-7949) for this week's review, tasting Jesse Schenker's work at his follow-up to Recette. "Sitting on a bland stretch of West 18th Street, The Gander is a cheeky recalibration of sorts," he writes. "Initially planned as 'The Goose,' Schenker and his wife and partner, Lindsay Schenker, had first sought equally roomy confines on West 20th Street, then home to the glitter-stained ruins of a nightclub...As such a departure from the flagship, with its high ceilings and dining rooms that extend a good one-third of a city block, the space ultimately sets the tone of what the family Schenker is trying to accomplish here."

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An Early Taste of Horchata

Categories: The Dish

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Photos by Laura Shunk
As Horchata (470 Sixth Avenue) prepared to open its doors for its first service, we spoke with chef Manuel Trevino, who told us his menu is built on "nods to classic New York fare and to Tex Mex. I'm from a border town in Texas, but I've spent the last 16 years in NYC, and I'm putting my whole Mexican portfolio into one menu."

From a deep roster of dishes, he called out his guacamole as something truly special -- he's doing a number of varieties, including one made with green apples and another mixed with chorizo and queso.

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Bunna Cafe Celebrates Vegan Ethiopian Traditions

Categories: The Dish

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Dominic Perri
That there's a dearth of Ethiopian food in New York City means that Bushwick's Bunna Cafe (1084 Flushing Avenue) would likely have stood out solely for its meals built on lentil stews and injera. But the restaurant is unique even among other restaurants serving the same cuisine because it's meat-free: Bunna celebrates Ethiopia's vegan fare.

"And though the mash-up sounds like a Brooklyn cliché, Ethiopian cuisine has long had vegetarian and vegan dishes in its repertoire thanks to extended fasting periods imposed by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church," writes Zachary Feldman in this week's review.

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Brick Lane Moving to Larger Digs on Second Avenue

Categories: The Dish

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We popped by Brick Lane Curry House (306-308 East 6th Street, 212-979-2900) over the weekend, where we learned via a sign in the bathroom, of all things, that the restaurant is planning to relocate to 99 Second Avenue in the coming weeks.

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Glady's Reemerges as a Caribbean Restaurant in Crown Heights

Categories: The Dish

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Courtesy Glady's
When Glady's (788 Franklin Avenue, 718-622-0249) first opened in Crown Heights last year, owner Michael Jacober told Grub Street, "I wanted to evoke an all-American sandwich shop." And so he and his crew turned out smoked meats and grilled cheese alongside bar snacks like chicharrones.

Now, the restaurant is getting a major refresh: Glady's will reopen on Saturday as a Caribbean joint.

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Chef Shanna Pacifico Departs From Back Forty West

Categories: The Dish

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Longtime Back Forty and Back Forty West chef Shanna Hoffman has left her post at Back Forty West (70 Prince Street, 212-219-8570), says owner Peter Hoffman. "She left in mid-January," he confirms. "She's moved on to other projects."

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