Grading the New Sushi Bar at Lobster Place in Chelsea Market

P1140994x.jpg
Lobster Place's uni (sea urchin) was breezy and briny, and got a grade of A-.


As part of the current evolution of Chelsea Market, old tenants are grabbing more space and revamping their premises to provide more opportunities for the sale of prepared food. In this connection, seafood distributor and retail fish store Lobster Place has added a new, narrow restaurant on the side with a separate entrance called Cull & Pistol, and placed several prepared seafood counters on its renovated and expanded retail floor. One such is a sushi bar, as distinguished from the sushi carryout mass-production facility directly behind it. Here the choice morsels are in a small glass refrigerator case, including perhaps seven or eight varieties of fish and crustaceans, to be made into sushi, sashimi, and ceviche, plus other miscellaneous tartares and tatakis. Here are some notes from FiTR's first meal there, in the company of Andrew the Sushi Fanatic, who took a somewhat dimmer view of the fish than we did. Together, we assigned grades to the things we ate.


More »

New Pizzeria in Tribeca: American Flatbread

P1130090x.jpg
The handsome beehive oven at American Flatbread, one of two


American Flatbread is a small but ambitious chain of pizza parlors that originated in New Hampshire Vermont. The chain recently opened a massive new pizza parlor at the corner of Hudson and Canal. As you wait for your pies, you can watch convoluted lines of cars entering the tunnel as they go back to Jersey. "What a beautiful view!" The waiter exclaimed, as the two of us stared out the window in near-disbelief, wondering at the chain's choice of location.


More »

David's New Bay Ridge Brisket House

P1110639xx.jpg
David's smallest brisket sandwich, at $7, is enough for nearly any appetite.


Bed-Stuy mainstay David's Brisket House is one of Brooklyn's most unusual restaurants. It was founded in the '70s as a Jewish deli, slinging exemplary pastrami, corned beef, and roasted beef brisket. Nearly 30 years later, it remained a fundamentally Jewish deli, only now run by observant Muslims who realized the fundamental concordance of Halal and Kosher food, and dedicated themselves to keeping the quality high and the meat cheap. And the place was a bit hit, not only with co-religionists at nearby mosques on Fulton Street, but with the local population in general.


More »

Greenwood Park Beer Garden Review

P1110160x.jpg
Greenwood Park has a novel fence constructed of shipping skids.


Sandwiched between Green-Wood Cemetery and the Prospect Expressway, Brooklyn's latest beer garden, Greenwood Park, began life as an auto garage. The building reflects this, with the roll-up doors still intact. Outside, picnic tables are scattered across a courtyard that also boasts three bocce courts -- the acreage is so large, the playing fields take up only a fraction of the space. Raised electric heaters like mushrooms promise seating late into the autumn and beginning in early spring.


More »

Union Square Café Revisited

P1100880xx.jpg
At Union Square Café, your meal begins with a bread basket, butter with herbed sea salt, and picholine olives.


As Danny Meyer increasingly focuses his attention on an expanding Shake Shack empire, seeding locations up and down the Eastern Seaboard, you've got to wonder, is he still paying attention to his white tablecloth joints? To answer this question, a friend and I returned to his first restaurant, Union Square Café, which celebrated its 27th birthday this month.


More »

Telepan Retains Its Luster -- and Then Some

P1100421x.jpg
This luscious squash and pecan tart could be the seasonal conclusion to your meal.


CIA grad Bill Telepan had worked at Le Cirque, Gotham, and Ansonia -- the first really ambitious restaurant on the Upper West Side -- when he was propelled to fame by a three-star Times review of Judson Grill. After the untimely demise of that establishment, the chef opened the restaurant that currently bears his name on the Upper West Side in 2005. Even though the place is named after him, he observed in an interview, "It's not about me, even though the name is Telepan."


More »

Urbanspace Meatpacking: A First Food Foray

P1100069x.jpg
The pizzas from Roberta's (this one called Speckenwulf) were up to snuff.


The latest addition to the Highline, if we can believe the hype, is a pop-up market called Urbanspace Meatpacking - and can you think of a more unlovely name? Well, maybe "pop-up" isn't the right term, it's more like a "sit here for a while," since, as one of the vendors told us, it will be operating in the blacktop parking lot that it now occupies for at least two months. With its mix of jewelry, fashions, and tchotkes, plus an enhanced presence of food, it's like one of those Christmas markets, without Santa.


More »

Searching for Guy Fieri At Guy's American Kitchen and Bar

guyfieri1_250.jpg
Guy Fieri's Facebook page
I've been making fun of Guy Fieri for a pretty long time. I mean, look at him: If we ever get dragged into World War III, the Axis powers will put his chubby, bleached-blond head on propaganda posters to illustrate what us awful Americans are like. But I'm not alone, everyone makes fun of Guy Fieri. He's the ankle-high, tattoo-covered, goateed orange in the forest of low-hanging fruits. That's why, when I first read he was opening a new restaurant in Times Square, I thought, "I better get there and write about it before anyone else can." Oh, to have those fresh, first zingers.

Clearly, this was the exact wrong approach because A) Pieces were written before the restaurant even opened and B) I'm pretty sure I saw at least five other bloggers at Guy's American Kitchen and Bar plotting their clever asides about the pun-filled menu. Most telling, though, was that there wasn't much to make fun of.

More »

A Quick Look at Jamie Bissonnette & Ken Oringer's Boston Restaurant Coppa

P1080612x.jpg
Coppa's beef heart, bone marrow, lovage, and grated horseradish pizza -- and you can't get anything quite like it here.


News on Eater that the celebrated Boston chefs Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer had their hearts set on opening a branch of Toro - their Catalan tapas bar - in Chelsea, in the same building that houses Del Posto and Colicchio & Sons, led me to seek out one of their restaurants in Beantown to see if these guys can cook. The short answer is, they can. And their cooking is wild-ass enough that it's likely to go over big in New York.


More »

Excellent Prix Fixe Lunch Deal at Vongerichten's Perry St

P1080174x.jpg
The skate with smooshed fresh peas and a pea-shoot salad was one of the afternoon's delights.


When Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened Perry St in 2005, it was his eighth dining establishment in New York. His intention was to return to his professional roots by opening an uncomplicated and unpretentious neighborhood bistro, as his original triumph Jo Jo had been. Perry St was located in the West Village in one of three newly built Richard Meier glass towers on the West Side Highway facing the Hudson River, a dramatic location but an isolated one. What's more, the chef lived upstairs, so the place would feel almost like his own commissary, and one suspected the august French figure of sneaking downstairs from his upstairs aerie for a bite of cheese or a small Alsatian sausage in the middle of the night.


More »
Loading...