Pairs well with matzo.

It has a stigma. Kosher wine, that is. Super sweet, sticky, viscous, and usually poured from a square-ish Manischewitz bottle. Or wan and watery bottles picked up en route to a religious home or holiday dinner. But it doesn't have to be this way. Does it?

A recent tasting (that sounds so formal; in reality the presence of this particular wine, at this particular event, was a coincidence) of Covenant Wine shook up everything we know about kosher vino.

Jeff Morgan is a Napa Valley vintner who produces a solid collection of wines that would be table-appropriate for any function, but the kosher qualification makes it even more spectacular. His grapes come from "truly coveted vineyards" (according to Noble Media Group's Jonathan Cristaldi), and rumor is the grapes bank in at 10K per pound. That's a lot of moola for some berries.

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Every week or so in "What to B When You BYOB," a local wine shop recommends a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, Lisa Schock, the director of tasting events at Chelsea Wine Vault, discusses what to bring to nearby fish and chips joint A Salt & Battery.

A quick call to the restaurant revealed that, "technically, no," they don't allow BYOB, but that, "Yes, bringing a bottle should be fine." It seems to be the running theme of the BYOB experience these days.

For Schock, pairing wines with such casual, greasy foods can be fun. "It's fish, but it's fried... It's oily but it's also light," she says. "So, I'd probably go for whites and roses."

Domaine de l'Abbaye Cuvee Benjamin Rose 2008, France ($12.99)
"This light-bodied rose is a Grenache blend from Provence. It's subtle and elegant, yet highly acidic. High acidity is so great with fried foods. It cuts right through the oil and fat."

Domaine La Croix Belle Champs des Grillons Rose 2008, France ($11.99)
"This is a Grenache and Syrah blend, so it's more of a medium-bodied rose. The fruit is more upfront. It's a little richer, with more weight to it. It's also more structured than the first one."

Anton Bauer Gmork Gruner Veltliner 2007, Austria ($11.99)
"Gruners have very high acidity, and this one is also really citrusy and crisp with good minerality. So, the acidity goes well with the oiliness of the fish, while the minerality is great for the lightness of it."

Bodegas Dinastia Vivanco Rioja Crianza Tempranillo 2004, Spain ($15.99)
"A Crianza, which is not aged as long as a Rioja, is great [with one of the heavier dishes, like the steak and kidney pie]. It's got bright fruit and good weight to it, but also has a mellow earthiness."

Have a recommendation for a great BYOB? Let us know by emailing food@villagevoice.com.

Every week or so in "What to B When You BYOB," we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to Cristiano Andrade, the general manager and buyer at Sea Grape , a West Village wine shop that specializes in well-priced boutique wines, about what to bring to nearby Bar Blanc, which has just lifted its $25 corkage fee on Sundays.

Ricossa Gavi 2007, Italy ($14.99)
"They have a black cod on the menu with fennel and saffron... most light whites would go with that," says Andrade. "Gavi is a great food wine because it has good minerality. Whites that grow along the Mediterranean have this saltiness to them that works well to pair with fish. This is actually on sale, so it's a great value."

Vignerons de Buxy 2007, Burgundy, France ($14.99)
"Pinot Noir is great with duck or any fowl, really. For a good Pinot, I would go straight to Burgundy. This wine is light, but lush enough to go with the rich roasted duck. We try to get as close to the source as possible, and this wine is made on the estate. Ask a waiter to put a little chill on it for you."

Mont Tauch Fitou Reserve 2006, Languedoc, France ($15.99)
"This estate-grown and bottled wine is medium to full bodied. It's made of Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah, so it's a typical Southern France blend. It's a little oaky, with a little spice, but it's still mellow and rich. These are big grapes that love pork. And Fitou is one of those appellations that you don't find everywhere. Wine geeks love it."

Nicolas Grosbois Chinon Rose 2007, Loire, France ($13.99)
"Finally, with anything in the summer, you can always drink a rose. This is a Chinon from the Loire Valley, which is known for its Cabernet Franc, but also makes great rose. It's a close-out from last year, but it's still showing well. It's light, crisp, and floral. With light roses, you're always looking for strawberries, and it has that."

Have a great BYOB recommendation? Let us know!

Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to Meguire Campbell, the manager at Vine Wine in LIC, about what to bring to Lamb & Jaffy, with its affordable New American menu, just over the Pulaski Bridge.

"We get quite a few people coming in for Lamb & Jaffy," says Meguire. "And we go there ourselves a lot, too."

Chateau de Bonhoste Rose, Bordeaux, France 2008 ($14.95)
"[Lamb & Jaffy] always has a seasonal risotto on the menu, and now it's a summer one with tomato. So, I would go with a rose for that. We have a lot of rose here. We love rose, mostly drier styles. The Bonhoste is dry, but fuller in body than most, yet still crisp and clean. There's a wild strawberry thing going on there. It's good with not just the risotto, but some of their salads, cheese plates, and the devils on horseback."

Les Trois Domaines Rouge 2007, Guerrouane, Morocco ($11.95)
"They do burgers there, and this wine would go especially well with their lamb burger. It's from a hot, dry climate so it has a lot of ripe tannins, and chewy dried fruit flavors. It's full bodied, but soft and approachable, and would also go great with the steaks. "

Muralhas De Moncao Vinho Verde 2008, Portugal ($11.95)
"This is 100 percent albarino, and is so great with the chicken salad. There's a slight prickle or effervescence to it, so it's fuller and rounder than most vinho verdes. It has citrus, melon, apple, and maybe even a little ginger on it."

Bernard Moreau Rouge 2007, Burgundy, France ($17.95)
"They usually have duck on the menu, and I love Burgundy with duck. It's also good with anything gamey or even lamb. This wine is a great value. It's really well balanced, with a nice handful of earth, pure fruit, just a touch of oak, and that great forest floor note you get with Pinot Noir. It also has great spice and cherry fruit."

Bouke White Blend 2008, North Fork, Long Island ($18.95)
"This is a great local wine. It's a crazy blend of almost everything you can imagine--Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewurztraminer. It's slightly aromatic, but dry, dry, dry. It's floral with hints of mango and pear. It's delicious with the brie, and any seafood dishes."

Have a great BYOB recommendation? Send it along.

Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to Kerin Auth, a partner at Tinto Fino, the Spanish wines boutique in the East Village, about what to bring to their Sri Lankan neighbor, Sigiri.

"We have a whole section for under $15 that we consider an important part of being right next to Sigiri. It includes six reds, six whites, and no less than four roses," says Kerin, adding: "Truthfully, probably about ten customers a night come in for Sigiri. On a slow night."

Casa Castillo 2007, Jumilla ($12)
"This is 100 percent Monastrell, which is a grape from southern Spain, so it's plummy with lots of dark, juicy fruit. It's jammy and rich without a lot of oak, which is the key to pairing reds with hot foods--stay away from oaky wines. It's just too much for the palate."

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Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to Beau Rapier of Uva Wines in Williamsburg about a certain newish Argentinean restaurant still awaiting its wine-and-beer license. Despite reports that booze is banned from the establishment for the moment, a call to the restaurant today revealed that BYOB was, indeed, permitted. Unofficially.

"The main thing people go there for is going to meat," says Beau, adding that a number of patrons come in to buy wine bound for the license-less joint. "And, while a lot of people look for an Argentinean wine--it is an Argentinean restaurant, after all--I like to go for Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany because much of the cuisine in Argentina is influenced by the Italians who immigrated there."

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Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to KaMar, one of the managers at Smith & Vine about what to bring to Brooklyn Middle-eastern joint Zaytoons. Smith & Vine works with select importers like Louis-Dressner, and is a haven for the $10 bottle seeker. "We get a lot of people coming in to check out our $10 table for stuff to take to Zaytoons," says Kamar. He recommends two whites, two reds, and nothing over $11.

Marques de Montemor, Vinho Tinto 2006, Alentejo, Portugal ($10)
"This is a Portuguese red blend. It's medium-bodied so it's not as dark and tannic as other Portuguese wines. It's more fresh and fruity in the mouth."

Belpoggio, Stupor Mundi Rosso Piceno 2007, The Marches, Italy ($11)
"This one is a Sangiovese and Montepulciano blend. It's also medium-bodied, and really good with lamb and sausage, like merguez. It definitely goes well with a lot of the Zaytoons fare."

Winzergenossenschaft Auggen, Gertie & Max Bereich Markgraflerland 2007, Baden, Germany ($10)
"This is 100 percent Gutedel, which is a varietal that is also known as Chasselas. It's a pretty fruity and crisp, easy-drinking, low-acid white. It's good with spicier dishes--it really helps to balance them out."

Meinhard Forstreiter, Grooner 2007, Niederosterreich, Austria ($9)
"This is probably the most popular one for customers going to Zaytoons. It's crisp and easy drinking, but with a touch of minerality. Gruner is one of those wines that works well with hard-to-pair foods--it's really earned a reputation for that. The reason is that it has a touch of a vegetal note, whereas other whites like Sauvignon Blanc are more fruity."

Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to David Hunter, the general manager and wine buyer at Chelsea Wine Vault, about what to bring to nearby fried chicken joint Dirty Bird. This southern comfort takeout place has a few seats for eating in and welcomes you to BYO.

MORE Red Blend (Organic) NV, Long Island, USA ($12.99)
"This velvety red features cherry and plumb notes with a touch of pepper and light earth... Medium bodied with great balance and a nice acidity that makes this a perfect pairing with most light to medium culinary dishes."

Domaine Fournier Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Loire Valley, France ($7.99)
"If you love Sancerre but don't love its continually rising prices, then we have a great substitute. Fournier is one of the best producers within Sancerre and this is his entry level blend."

Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile ($9.99)
"A terrific value from the Chilean property of Domaine Lafite Rothschild, this Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits strong varietal characteristics with ripe black currant and peppery notes... making for an easy drinking everyday red."

Weingut Hofer Gruner Veltliner Trocken (1L - Organic) 2008, Austria ($10.99)
"Once you get over the fact that a bottle of the Hofer's 2008 Gruner Veltliner is sealed with a crown "beer" cap and contains a full liter, you will realize what a great bargain this wine is. Smelling of green bean and lime, it offers delicate yet thirst-quenching fruit."

Photo borrowed from Harlem Vintage

Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to the folks at Harlem Vintage about what to bring to nearby Jamaican joint Under D Tree. Harlem Vintage organizes its wine by varietal as opposed to by region, in order to help demystify the wine selection process.

Domaine des 2 Anes 2008, Corbieres Rose, France ($13.99)
"This is a great rose.... crisp but spicy and lively. It's a refreshing option to enjoy with spicy food like Jamaican," says Meg, a salesperson.

Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina 2007, Rioja, Spain ($13.99)
"Sometimes, with spicy food, it's best to go a little off-dry. This semi-dolce is made in the traditional Rioja (barrel-fermented) style. It has nice acidity and a bit of honey."

Sobon Estate 2007 Zinfandel, Shenandoah Valley, California, USA ($10.99)
"For a red, I would go with a lot of fruit, something juicy that you can serve a bit cool. The Sobon is organic and fresh, your typical Californian Zin."

Monpertuis Cepage Counoise 2006, Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($11.99)
"This wine is unusual because the grape is not usually bottled on its own. It's usually part of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape blend. By itself, it's just a nice, easy country French wine."

Every week or so in 'What to B When You BYOB' we ask a local wine shop to recommend a few good wines under $20 to pair with the food at a nearby BYOB restaurant.

This week, we talk to Jamie Wolff of Chambers Street Wines about what to bring to nearby Middle Eastern eatery Alfanoose. We start by breaking our $20 rule for a beautifully aged Rioja rose, which many say is one of the last made in the region's traditional style. We make up for the splurge with three other under-$15 options.

Lopez de Heredia 1998 Rioja Tondonia Rose ($27.99)
"This is a serious rose," says Wolff. "It has a lot of aromatic flavor intensity like a red wine, and would go great with Middle Eastern cuisine." The winery only releases its roses at 9-10 years of age, which is why the current release is from 1998.

Hofer 2008 Weinviertel Auersthal Gruner Veltliner #1 ($10.99)
"It comes in a liter-sized bottle with a crown cap, which is like a beer-bottle cap. It's biodynamically farmed and works beautifully with all kids of spicy, aromatic foods. Also, it works with creamy textures, so stuff like hummus and baba ganoush. Plus, it has great acidity and not so much fruit, like other whites."

Nittnaus 2007 Burgenland Blauer Zweigelt ($13.99)
"This one is also biodynamically farmed. In the same way as a Cote du Rhone, it works well with Mediterranean food. It's ripe, full-bodied, juicy, with zingy fruit. The local food where this wine comes from is rich and full of herbs so it would also work with, for example, kabobs."

Sandro Fay 2007 Rosso di Valtellina ($13.49)
"This is 100 percent Nebbiolo, but a relatively light and fresh version that is moderately tannic. You can chill it a bit so it's great in warm weather. Its bright currant fruit is good with rich flavors, so again, would pair well with this type of cuisine."