Not even ten years ago, most serious wine drinkers in this city were of a pretty elite group — they were suits with deep bank accounts who cellared Burgundy and Bordeaux and finished nights with $1,000 bottles ordered off the lists of wine meccas like Cru and Veritas. But sometime in the last decade, interest in wine began to seep past traditional boundaries, hooking enthusiasts with much more meager budgets. These drinkers pushed into underrated regions, looking for wines that wouldn't drain their savings in one shot. They drank funky and unusual wines, and forwent the white-tablecloth temples in favor of more casual restaurants. And they were led into this brave new frontier by people like Patrick Cappiello, the wine director at Pearl & Ash (220 Bowery, 212-837-2370) and newly opened Rebelle (218 Bowery, 917-639-3880).