When you're the name behind go-to New York City eateries like Pastis, Balthazar, Schiller's, and Minetta Tavern, what do you care about a one-star review in lowly New York magazine? If you're Keith McNally, you care, goddamnit. Enough to write an incensed letter personally attacking the critic, and more importantly, defending your clientele.
After New York food critic Adam Platt dropped a single star on McNally's new pizza joint on the Bowery, Pulino's, McNally shot back. And since the food world loves a good power struggle, the feud made headlines across blogs like Eater and New York's own Grub Street, in addition to the Observer and even today's New York Post.
But what everyone seems to be missing in this story is that, as things tend to do in New York City, it all comes down to hipsters. That's right: McNally knows whose table he puts food on, and thus, who puts food on his. Loud downtown kids with their indie movies and tattoos! More »